By diehard Go To PostI can't see how it would defeat the purpose. I think as long as you do stability testing and review WHEA logs (assuming your motherboard is reporting them) then you should be getting the full benefit.Cool, thanks for the encouragement! I'm doing stability testing right now and can confirm that my memory errors are getting logged to Windows. I have discovered that the FCLK limit of my hardware is likely 3866. Can't even get to POST.
So far, I'm down to 3666 mt/s with 16-20-20-40 timings. All the speeds above that have logged an error within five minutes of stress testing. I'm following this guide: https://github.com/integralfx/MemTestHelper/blob/oc-guide/DDR4%20OC%20Guide.md#finding-a-baseline but will be a bit more cautious about testing. Going to go overkill and run each of three tests overnight just to make sure things are good.
E: fixed link
For anyone curious how you can tell if ECC caught and fixed a memory error in Windows, this is what the Event Viewer shows:
By diehard Go To Postgood news: ECC is working!haha nope! I think those errors were when I was testing 3800 and 3733. There haven't been any, so far, at 3666.
bad news: you don't want it working that much, lol
3666 @ 16-20-20 is totally respectable. If you are running memory tests for any extended time and not seeing anything... you prob good!
By diehard Go To Post3666 @ 16-20-20 is totally respectable. If you are running memory tests for any extended time and not seeing anything… you prob good!Aye, this is far better than what I was expecting. Lol
Still gotta run some over night tests to make sure since I only ran TM5 for an hour and didn't even get two full cycles in.
By HonestVapes Go To PostI wish I had Kibner’s patience for memory overclocking and stability checks.Heh. I just set and forget while I go fuck off and do something else. Got PS5, Switch, Gundam kits, chores to do, etc.
Come back a few hours later and see how things are going. Spend like five minutes recording results (so I don't forget what happened and what I had set), changing settings, and starting the test again.
By Celcius Go To PostIs memtest86 still the standard for memory testing these days, or is it horribly obsolete?TM5 (with anta777's extreme or absolut config), HCI MemTest, Karhu, and OCCT are the tools to use now.
Oh, there is also a mem test Google wrote for their servers called stresstestapp that you can run on Ubuntu (and maybe other Linux distros).
Think I'm gonna go for it and upgrade to an i7 12700 and Gigabyte B660 board. Planning to pass on my 9900K, motherboard, old NCase and a spare 1TB SSD so he can get his shit together and finally get a PC.
By Pedja Go To PostNo 12700K? Me > vapes
I just don’t see any value in overclocking modern CPUs for day to day use. I used to, but for majority of my use of it my 9900K has been at Intel’s actual spec with a long term power limit of 95w.
The power draw getting exponentially higher for a couple hundred mhz is just unreasonable for me.
By HonestVapes Go To PostI just don’t see any value in overclocking modern CPUs for day to day use. I used to, but for majority of my use of it my 9900K has been at Intel’s actual spec with a long term power limit of 95w.Might as well just get a switch m8
The power draw getting exponentially higher for a couple hundred mhz is just unreasonable for me.
By Kibner Go To PostI turned off PBO for similar reasons.
PBO goes from about 140w to about 180w-200w on your CPU, doesn’t it?
9900K’s PL1 and PL2 are 95w and around 120w which is how I have mine set.
190w with PL1/PL2 removed and MCE enabled. 200+ at 5Ghz manual OC.
For awhile I had MCE on and no power limits, but I saw no change when I enforced Intel’s spec in gaming besides lower temps.
It’s done. Ordered the Gigabyte B660 ITX and i7 12700. Sold my Rift S and Acer X27 to cover the cost. Need to order the LGA 1700 bracket for my CPU block and I should be good to go, won’t even need to drain my loop to install the new parts.
By HonestVapes Go To PostPBO goes from about 140w to about 180w-200w on your CPU, doesn’t it?It drives up the heat on the super dense chip so much that my fans were always on medium speed (triggered at 50c), even when idle. Now the fans only get to medium speed on full cpu and gpu load. Much quieter and only lost tens of mhz.
9900K’s PL1 and PL2 are 95w and around 120w which is how I have mine set.
190w with PL1/PL2 removed and MCE enabled. 200+ at 5Ghz manual OC.
For awhile I had MCE on and no power limits, but I saw no change when I enforced Intel’s spec in gaming besides lower temps.
What’s the best way of going with a clean Windows installation whilst keeping some of my files?
I’m not too arsed about downloading games again, but I would like to keep my web browser settings and passwords, etc. intact.
I’m not too arsed about downloading games again, but I would like to keep my web browser settings and passwords, etc. intact.
By HonestVapes Go To PostWhat’s the best way of going with a clean Windows installation whilst keeping some of my files?What browser do you use? Both Chrome and Edge sync that to your user account.
I’m not too arsed about downloading games again, but I would like to keep my web browser settings and passwords, etc. intact.
By LFMartins86 Go To PostWhat browser do you use? Both Chrome and Edge sync that to your user account.
Firefox. It has an account system too but I’ve never had it working properly between desktop and mobile.
By HonestVapes Go To PostWhat’s the best way of going with a clean Windows installation whilst keeping some of my files?In-Place Upgrade. https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10/
I’m not too arsed about downloading games again, but I would like to keep my web browser settings and passwords, etc. intact.
e: there are a couple options you can do, one of which includes keeping a lot of your "personal" files.
Huh, this is cool:
tldw; keep GearDownMode on and keep your command rate to 2T as having them on and at 1T doesn't actually bring real world performance differences in games but keeping them off and at 2T gives you more overhead to overclock your ram and lower timings
tldw; keep GearDownMode on and keep your command rate to 2T as having them on and at 1T doesn't actually bring real world performance differences in games but keeping them off and at 2T gives you more overhead to overclock your ram and lower timings
Imagine having all the parts ready for your upgrade and forgetting to order thermal paste. Couldn't be me.
Found paste, let’s go
Liking the look of this B660 ITX board, one of the nicest looking boards I’ve owed but what the fuck is going on with the M.2 heatsink?
Big chunk of aluminium shielding the actual tiny heatsink beneath. Stupid design right there.
Aiming for a straight swap here. Unplugged everything from the old motherboard, transferring it over to the new board and hopefully I can just take the block off the old board and mount it to the new board without issue.
If that doesn’t go to plan, gonna have to use the stock cooler for the 12700 until I can sort something out.
Liking the look of this B660 ITX board, one of the nicest looking boards I’ve owed but what the fuck is going on with the M.2 heatsink?
Big chunk of aluminium shielding the actual tiny heatsink beneath. Stupid design right there.
Aiming for a straight swap here. Unplugged everything from the old motherboard, transferring it over to the new board and hopefully I can just take the block off the old board and mount it to the new board without issue.
If that doesn’t go to plan, gonna have to use the stock cooler for the 12700 until I can sort something out.
I hope this triggers at least one person.
And it’s done. Tight as fuck to work around the socket and get everything connected/screwed in. Had to use needlenose pliers to screw in the CPU block
Next up, Windows 11.
By Celcius Go To PostThe system is looking nice… makes me want to go water-cooled.If you want further reason to go for it. How does an i7 pulling 180w and only hitting 73c maxed out on a hot day at 1000RPM sound to you?
By inky Go To PostNeeds more paste imoNah, 12700 am babby cpu.
Windows 11 install ain’t going so smoothly so far. Failed twice and gave me an error code. Trying some suggestions I’ve found on Google, installed all Win10 updates and ram some command lines.
Up to 83% so far on my third attempt
Edit: Success
Edit 2: The update tool didn’t specify if I wanted a clean install or not, so now I need to reset the PC to do a clean install. Microsoft are trash tbh
Other than that, everything seems good so far.
Up to 83% so far on my third attempt
Edit: Success
Edit 2: The update tool didn’t specify if I wanted a clean install or not, so now I need to reset the PC to do a clean install. Microsoft are trash tbh
Other than that, everything seems good so far.
If you’re moving and you have an air cooled pc, you can just turn it sideways and put it in your car trunk to transport it (wrapped in a thick blanket for protection of course).
If you have a water cooled pc, is it still safe to do the same thing since the pc should have been already leak tested? Or is it to dangerous to do since it could potentially leak? Any issue with air bubbles getting generated if the pc bumps around a little in transport?
If you have a water cooled pc, is it still safe to do the same thing since the pc should have been already leak tested? Or is it to dangerous to do since it could potentially leak? Any issue with air bubbles getting generated if the pc bumps around a little in transport?
I've transported a couple of PCs with dual-tower air coolers and heavy GPUs in such a manner in the past, though I usually lay it horizontally on either the passenger or the back seat, for that extra shock absorption and peace of mind.
Never had an issue. As long as you drive carefully, avoid potholes and are not pulling crazy G's, it's perfectly safe, unforeseen accidents permitting.
Can't really speak for custom loop cases, but I imagine it would depend on the type and duration of the trip. Regardless, I think the safest way would be to drain and later refill the loop, preceded by a close inspection of all the tubes / fittings.
If it's a short trip, you could probably get away with transporting the PC as is, reservoir cap in place, wrapped in a blanked, buckled up on the seat next to you. Though I think I'd only be comfortable doing it this way, if I had a custom loop with soft tubing. Hard tubing seems much easier to pull loose.
Never had an issue. As long as you drive carefully, avoid potholes and are not pulling crazy G's, it's perfectly safe, unforeseen accidents permitting.
Can't really speak for custom loop cases, but I imagine it would depend on the type and duration of the trip. Regardless, I think the safest way would be to drain and later refill the loop, preceded by a close inspection of all the tubes / fittings.
If it's a short trip, you could probably get away with transporting the PC as is, reservoir cap in place, wrapped in a blanked, buckled up on the seat next to you. Though I think I'd only be comfortable doing it this way, if I had a custom loop with soft tubing. Hard tubing seems much easier to pull loose.
Iirc, the guys who do custom loops to show up to Quakecon do drain before the cross country trip and then refill once they get to their hotel room.
You’ll get some air in the loop if you transport it, but that’ll work it’s way back out over time. I wouldn’t be worried if it was soft tubing. Hard tubing, I’d drain the loop to transport it.
Honestly I’m thinking of going with an AIO for the CPU just for the sake of aesthetics now. It’s not like I need a 54mm radiator for a locked i7.
Probably go with the EK Basic 240 if I do.
Honestly I’m thinking of going with an AIO for the CPU just for the sake of aesthetics now. It’s not like I need a 54mm radiator for a locked i7.
Probably go with the EK Basic 240 if I do.
Did some work on timings this weekend and am slowly bringing them down. TCL, rRCDWR, and tRP are as low as they can go. tRCDRD might be as low as it can go. I will be bringing down tRAS probably tonight. Once those are set, the only other timing I really plan on messing with is tRFC because that supposedly makes a tangible difference in gaming performance. Everything else is on Auto.
e: also, I might mess with changing CMD Rate to 2T and see if I can get better performance with that
e: also, I might mess with changing CMD Rate to 2T and see if I can get better performance with that
Huh, tRAS trains to no lower than 21, no matter what number below that I set it to. Oh, well. It's going through a stress test while I play some 13 Sentinels.
Ok, done with the primary timings. Only secondary timing I'll mess with now is tRFC, I think.
3666 16-20-17-21 seems to be stable. Lowering tCL and tRP leads to errors, lowering tRC prevents the computer from booting (have to reset CMOS), and my machine just will not allow tRAS to be lowered any further.
3666 16-20-17-21 seems to be stable. Lowering tCL and tRP leads to errors, lowering tRC prevents the computer from booting (have to reset CMOS), and my machine just will not allow tRAS to be lowered any further.
By HonestVapes Go To PostThat’s pretty reasonable for timings. Better than some Corsair kits tbhOnce I get this worked out, I will probably try out setting it to use 2T and then see if I can increase the frequency even more. So, I could get this just a little bit teensy faster.
e: this is Hynix DJR die, if you want to recommend it to someone else
By HonestVapes Go To Post@zabo show me some build pics of your Meshy, I need inspirationMaybe after I finish the build, heh. I've been waiting for the right time to get back to it and get it to a 100% state for months now.
By HonestVapes Go To PostSince upgrading, I’m really liking the idea of getting a Jonsplus i100 and a D15 or 360mm AIO.Great little case. Made it to the finals with the Meshlicious for my build and only lost because of the latter's overall flexibility, price and availability.
By MF Coom Go To PostLads, is the LG C2 cummies?Very, but it's still primarily a TV.
I was kind of hoping LG would implement a couple of monitor-like features in the 42" C2, since that's what many will be buying it for, but it doesn't look like they bothered. Well, there is a new 21:9 mode, so that's something, I guess. ABL is still an issue, unlike with the QD-OLED ultrawide.
In any case, I'd wait for the price to drop to around 1000€/$/£ before considering it.
£430 for a 3060 Ti seem like a decent deal?
Been helping my mate with parts, and I recommended that to him since he didn’t want to go with a lower end card. Tried to talk him into a £260 3050 or £300 RX 6600 at first.
Been helping my mate with parts, and I recommended that to him since he didn’t want to go with a lower end card. Tried to talk him into a £260 3050 or £300 RX 6600 at first.