By Zabojnik Go To PostJust paid 16€ for a 40mm 5v fan. Damn you, Noctua.
The 40x10mm or the 40x20mm? I’ve a spare 40x10mm but it’s the PWM model.
By HottestVapes Go To PostThe 40x10mm or the 40x20mm? I’ve a spare 40x10mm but it’s the PWM model.40x10mm, 3-pin model. Think I'll be only using 5V and ground to connect it to the Pi anyway.
By Kibner Go To PostTLC nvme ssd for just slightly more than equivalent QLC ssd's: https://www.pcgamesn.com/addlink-s70-1tb-ssd-review-performance
Need to find more reviews to find how/why this is possible.
right looks like my timetable for a new pc is about 3 weeks or so, too busy to fuck about with it until then, but just in time for my birthday.
By Zabojnik Go To PostExactly my thoughts on it. Not sure if trust.
Control with all of the ray tracing effects gives me life. Can't wait for the GPU power to get there to where it can run at higher resolutions and maintain 60pfs+. In control I'm at 4k using DLSS @ 1920x1080, ray tracing high, max settings save for volumetric fog which I have on Med instead of High. Low Latency on in nvcp which is supposed to help with some of the DX12 stuttering. I can maintain 60fps+ the majority of the time with this setup. Mid 40s if I bump the DLSS up to 2560x1440.
By HottestVapes Go To PostBut Smokey
I'm outputting at 4k
By Kibner Go To PostTLC nvme ssd for just slightly more than equivalent QLC ssd's: https://www.pcgamesn.com/addlink-s70-1tb-ssd-review-performance
Need to find more reviews to find how/why this is possible.
That's essentially the same drive (firmware could be tuned differently) as a lot of the new Phison E12 drives.
The Sabrent Rocket 1TB ($110 Amazon) Silicon Power P34A80 ($114 Amazon) or a Team Group MP34 ($110 Newegg) will be very similar. It's not so much as that drive is an amazing price, just that others are either the best (Samsung) or haven't correctly adjusted their pricing (Seagate, WD).
The Sabrent Rocket 1TB ($110 Amazon) Silicon Power P34A80 ($114 Amazon) or a Team Group MP34 ($110 Newegg) will be very similar. It's not so much as that drive is an amazing price, just that others are either the best (Samsung) or haven't correctly adjusted their pricing (Seagate, WD).
Bought new parts for a fresh rig and they've been sitting there for the last 3 or 4 days.
The plan was to test some very retro hardware that has been collecting dust in the cellar. (AMD XP 3000+, Socket A Mainboard - and a 400Mhz Pentium II). See what's working and sell it on ebay and dump the rest. Afterwards upgrading my running "retro" hardware (AM3, X3 440).
But I just have no desire in disassembling my running desktop. Don't want to reinstall all the running programs and think about transplanting my C:\ drive onto the new mainboard and see what happens. Since I have no idea where my license key for Win10 went since my move I am really reluctantly getting everything ready, but at the same time a bit fearful, that upgrading is going to be a clusterfuck of work. Think I'll do a clone of my C:\ on an old spare HDD and see what happens before I drop in the running SSD.
Am also creating a Win10 boot USB as hail mary if nothing works. Ordering all the parts I really thought I'd be more excited about all this.
The plan was to test some very retro hardware that has been collecting dust in the cellar. (AMD XP 3000+, Socket A Mainboard - and a 400Mhz Pentium II). See what's working and sell it on ebay and dump the rest. Afterwards upgrading my running "retro" hardware (AM3, X3 440).
But I just have no desire in disassembling my running desktop. Don't want to reinstall all the running programs and think about transplanting my C:\ drive onto the new mainboard and see what happens. Since I have no idea where my license key for Win10 went since my move I am really reluctantly getting everything ready, but at the same time a bit fearful, that upgrading is going to be a clusterfuck of work. Think I'll do a clone of my C:\ on an old spare HDD and see what happens before I drop in the running SSD.
Am also creating a Win10 boot USB as hail mary if nothing works. Ordering all the parts I really thought I'd be more excited about all this.
By diehard Go To PostThat's essentially the same drive (firmware could be tuned differently) as a lot of the new Phison E12 drives.Ahh, good to hear!
The Sabrent Rocket 1TB ($110 Amazon) Silicon Power P34A80 ($114 Amazon) or a Team Group MP34 ($110 Newegg) will be very similar. It's not so much as that drive is an amazing price, just that others are either the best (Samsung) or haven't correctly adjusted their pricing (Seagate, WD).
I want to do all the builds in all the cases just for fun. Unfortunately, I don't have a million dollars lying around.
By Kibner Go To PostI want to do all the builds in all the cases just for fun. Unfortunately, I don't have a million dollars lying around.I've crossed off 4 cases so far. I enjoy the building process a lot, but I'm trying to stay faithful to the NCase now it's got the loop in it. Now I just want to further perfect it. New feet for better airflow from the bottom, thicker rad for the side, redo all the tubing with ZMT at some point. That kinda shit.
I'd like to build in a Meshify C though, such a good looking case and would be so easy to build in. There's also a few of the high end Lian Li cases and the Raijintek Paean I'd like to try my hand at.
By HottestVapes Go To PostI don't like Kryonaut. Absolute pain to spread, even with the included spatula.
You don't just put a small amount on the CPU , then mount the AIO?
By Smokey Go To PostYou don't just put a small amount on the CPU , then mount the AIO?
I used it on the 2080Ti for the Accelero, had to spread it. Didn't trust using a blob just in case the mounting pressure wasn't enough to coat the full die. Went back to NT-H1/2 for the waterblocks.
By Smokey Go To PostYou don't just put a small amount on the CPU , then mount the AIO?
(but really, just make an X)
By Zabojnik Go To PostAnything to bring it closer to a mid tower in size. Just according to keikaku.
lol
By Kibner Go To PostAny overhead it or other similar capture software has is inconsequential compared to what it takes to do encoding. You are looking at like 1% CPU usage as overhead on any CPU in the last 5+ years.Gotcha. This is a laptop with a shitty CPU tho lol. I'll probably use OBS but apparently Windows has a built in Screen Recorder(Win+Alt+R)
By s y ngmi Go To PostGotcha. This is a laptop with a shitty CPU tho lol. I'll probably use OBS but apparently Windows has a built in Screen Recorder(Win+Alt+R)That's a recorder, so it will save it to your storage. If you want to stream/broadcast, it's B instead of R. Or you can just hit win+G to bring up the game bar and do it from there.
I'd look into monitor arms from Ergotron.
https://smallformfactor.net/reviews/streacoms-da2-versatility/
By HottestVapes Go To PostFeel free to slide in to my DMs for anymore ITX/SFF questions, fam. It's my bread and butter.Done with window shopping and ordered a Streacom DA2 in black.
https://smallformfactor.net/reviews/streacoms-da2-versatility/
By diehard Go To Postdoes anyone have much experience with higher end monitor arms?Not really. I surveyed a whole bunch of products when I was buying mine, ended up with a wall-mounted Amazon Basics. Works as intended.
RIP Spengo Congrats!
Thanks. I'm pretty confident with the configuration that I have in mind for it. I wouldn't have bought it otherwise.
I'm going with an AIO because there's quite a lot of space and it would be silly not to use it. It should look like this (minus the SFX power supply).
I'm going with an AIO because there's quite a lot of space and it would be silly not to use it. It should look like this (minus the SFX power supply).
By Spengo Go To PostThanks. I'm pretty confident with the configuration that I have in mind for it. I wouldn't have bought it otherwise.What are using in place of the SFX PSU? ATX PSU is no bueno with a 280mm rad.
I'm going with an AIO because there's quite a lot of space and it would be silly not to use it. It should look like this (minus the SFX power supply).
By Spengo Go To PostI'd look into monitor arms from Ergotron.yes lad v cool choice
Done with window shopping and ordered a Streacom DA2 in black.
https://smallformfactor.net/reviews/streacoms-da2-versatility/
By Spengo Go To PostThat's true. I'll have to ditch it in the end and opt for SFX.I think a 240 AIO fits with an ATX PSU though, but if you're going for an AIO you may as well go all in with a 280.
As for SFX units, the Corsair SF range are the best you can get. I've had an SF600 Gold and use an SF750 Platinum now, I wouldn't even consider any of the other brands. The SF750 is semi-passive too, so at less than 300W power draw the fan doesn't spin. It's proper end game kit for SFF builds.
The SF450 is fine too, but I'd always recommend the SF600 Gold/Plat across the board unless you're using really low power hardware.
By diehard Go To PostAMD might have been a bit aggressive on their advertised boost frequencies
AMD stay shitty.
By HottestVapes Go To PostI think a 240 AIO fits with an ATX PSU though, but if you're going for an AIO you may as well go all in with a 280.Thanks for the tip. Are they genuinely quiet too?
As for SFX units, the Corsair SF range are the best you can get. I've had an SF600 Gold and use an SF750 Platinum now, I wouldn't even consider any of the other brands. The SF750 is semi-passive too, so at less than 300W power draw the fan doesn't spin. It's proper end game kit for SFF builds.
The SF450 is fine too, but I'd always recommend the SF600 Gold/Plat across the board unless you're using really low power hardware.
By Spengo Go To PostThanks for the tip. Are they genuinely quiet too?
The SF600 Gold only became audible in my build after putting an Accelero on my 2080Ti. i wouldn't call it quiet, but it wasn't obnoxious either. They redesigned the fan curve and shit for the SF600 Plat and I've heard it's much quieter.
The SF750, I'm yet to even hear. The fan is the same as in the SF600 Plat, but the curve is different for it. I'd call it as close to silent as you can get for a SFX unit barring the completely passive Silverstone NJ450. At idle, or playing games that aren't very demanding, it's completely silent. Playing more demanding games, I can't hear it over my Noctua's at 1500/1000RPM.
As for AIOs, whichever size you go for, make your life easy and pick one that has the tubes exit the block at an angle like the OEM Asetek units, over an AIO that has tubes come out the top of the block like the EVGA units.
Gotcha.
Edit: There has been a new development. Someone asked me to build a PC for them so I ordered a DAN Cases A4-SFX V4. I might keep that for myself and swap it with the DA2.
Edit: There has been a new development. Someone asked me to build a PC for them so I ordered a DAN Cases A4-SFX V4. I might keep that for myself and swap it with the DA2.
Spengo with that 2000iq play.
My brother has been waiting for the perfect 27" 1440p 144hz IPS gaming monitor to drop for over a year now. Think he'll probably go for either the brand new LG 27GL850G or the so-fresh-you-cant-even-buy-it-yet Asus VG27AQ.
The Asus is slightly more interesting because of its advanced ELMB mode, which works with VRR.
Has any of you ever used ELMB in a competitive fps scenario for extended periods of time? Worth the loss in brightness and increased eye fatigue?
My brother has been waiting for the perfect 27" 1440p 144hz IPS gaming monitor to drop for over a year now. Think he'll probably go for either the brand new LG 27GL850G or the so-fresh-you-cant-even-buy-it-yet Asus VG27AQ.
The Asus is slightly more interesting because of its advanced ELMB mode, which works with VRR.
Has any of you ever used ELMB in a competitive fps scenario for extended periods of time? Worth the loss in brightness and increased eye fatigue?
How is that monitor so affordable? Feels like you would have paid double for those specs a couple of years ago. Particularly from Asus.
By Spengo Go To PostGotcha.
Edit: There has been a new development. Someone asked me to build a PC for them so I ordered a DAN Cases A4-SFX V4. I might keep that for myself and swap it with the DA2.
After owning one myself, I’d only go back to a DAN sized case with mid range parts, which is a shame because they’re really easy to build in and great looking cases too.
The downside is there’s a real trade off between noise, temps and performance. You can only pick fwo, acceptable temps and performance at the expense of noise, acceptably low noise and temps at the expense of performance (I.e. undevolting, underclocking, etc.) and so on.
If you decide to go with it, go for a Cryorig C7G and swap the fan for an A9x14. The stock fan is loud af, and really turbulent against the side panel.
The Alpenfohn Blackridge isn’t worth the hassle, too many compatibility issues. Especially on AM4 boards but even some Intel boards have issues with it.
The L9i/L9a is only worth using with a fan duct.
The 645LT AIO is worth using for i7/R7 CPUs. I wouldn’t at all recommend a 9900K/3900X though. It’s a good little AIO, I’ve used the 545LC and I was impressed with it. The only downside is it makes the build fairly harder to put together. Cable management really matters with it too.
GPUs tend to hold up really well in the DAN, the main limit is just that you can’t go thicker than two slots. Other than that, had no issue running a 2080Ti in a DAN case beyond the noise being too much for me. It ran a bit warm too, but that was due to the stock cooler more than the case.
Generally, stick with EVGA or FE/Reference models unless it’s a blower. Definitely don’t go with a blower card.
Do good gaming laptops exist? My girlfriend wants one. Budget is around a £1000, give or take £300ish. Preferably with a 120/144hz and not garish as fuck to look at.
Help.
Help.
By HottestVapes Go To PostDo good gaming laptops exist? My girlfriend wants one. Budget is around a £1000, give or take £300ish. Preferably with a 120/144hz and not garish as fuck to look at.where do you live?
Help.
There's companies that makes laptops based on Chevo or Tongfang chassis. Light, sleek, with a great screen. The problem is that the battery doesn't last long at all but it's fairly simple to get a better one and stick it in yourself.
I recommend getting the 17-inch laptops. They are bigger, but this also means that it has better cooling and unlike mine doesn't sound like a jetplane while playing a video game. Eluktronics is one brand that I found to be very well recommended in the US.
https://www.eluktronics.com/MECH-17
Mine is a Maingear Pulse 15 btw.
By Spengo Go To PostHow is that monitor so affordable? Feels like you would have paid double for those specs a couple of years ago. Particularly from Asus.No g-sync tax for one thing and I guess they figured they had enough price-gouging going with their 27" 4K HDR monitor, so they put it in their affordable TUF line of products. A bit surprising, considering the new ELMB + VRR tech, yeah. Could've been 100-200€ more, easily.