Smokey upgrading to 5gig and I’m contemplating just cancelling my entire internet service because Verizon has raised my bill every month for absolutely no reason
And the only other competitor is Spectrum, which is worse and more expensive
And the only other competitor is Spectrum, which is worse and more expensive
Yey, 9800x3D is on the way. Mindfactory apparently received a huge shipment.
This one is going into my bro's PC, since he already has a buyer lined up for his old PC, I'm going to order another one for me. Guess the drought was short-lived.
This one is going into my bro's PC, since he already has a buyer lined up for his old PC, I'm going to order another one for me. Guess the drought was short-lived.
kscreen-doctor on linux owns when using sunshine. i have a non-oled steam deck so i use this "do command" in sunshine when connecting to my computer from it to change to the steam deck's resolution, change the ui scaling back to 100%, disable hdr, and change the monitor brightness to 1 (for power saving and oled saving purposes):
kscreen-doctor output.DP-3.mode.35 output.DP-3.scale.1 output.DP-3.hdr.disable output.DP-3.brightness.1
i then use this "undo command" to restore my host system back to it's defaults once i disconnect:
kscreen-doctor output.DP-3.mode.2 output.DP-3.scale.1.5 output.DP-3.hdr.enable output.DP-3.brightness.100
e: my monitor was not changing brightness when everything was run as a single command, despite kscreen-doctor saying the brightness had changed. the solution was to add a sleep command between changing the brightness and everything else. each line in the blocks below was done by hitting the "+" sign in sunshine to add a new command.
i then use this "undo command" to restore my host system back to it's defaults once i disconnect:
e: my monitor was not changing brightness when everything was run as a single command, despite kscreen-doctor saying the brightness had changed. the solution was to add a sleep command between changing the brightness and everything else. each line in the blocks below was done by hitting the "+" sign in sunshine to add a new command.
kscreen-doctor output.DP-3.mode.35 output.DP-3.scale.1 output.DP-3.hdr.disable
sleep 1
kscreen-doctor output.DP-3.brightness.1kscreen-doctor output.DP-3.mode.2 output.DP-3.scale.1.5 output.DP-3.hdr.enable
sleep 1
kscreen-doctor output.DP-3.brightness.100
Put an order in for 64GB Trident Royals 😮💨
Want to get a 4TB SSD and then I think I’m set on any incremental updates to the rig
Want to get a 4TB SSD and then I think I’m set on any incremental updates to the rig
corsair have 20% off on ram so went with a 64gb kit too, slowly gathering parts for my build
has anyone here successfully abandoned windows for their main computer? don't really want to install windows 11 but assume gaming still isn't good enough on linux (at least in terms of compatibility)
has anyone here successfully abandoned windows for their main computer? don't really want to install windows 11 but assume gaming still isn't good enough on linux (at least in terms of compatibility)
By rerixo Go To Postcorsair have 20% off on ram so went with a 64gb kit too, slowly gathering parts for my build
I was looking at them to use that 20% off too but they didn’t have a 6400 64GB kit available from what I saw .
You don't need a 6400 kit to get to 6400. Went with a 64gb 6000 kit myself, I'll probably just tighten the timings and call it a day, no real benefit in going too deep with ram overclocking.
By Smokey Go To PostI was looking at them to use that 20% off too but they didn’t have a 6400 64GB kit available from what I saw .if you get an AMD chip, be wary of getting something faster than 6000 unless you want to manually tune timings.
Don't buy DDR5-8000 for AM5. It's far from guaranteed to work with every CPU and mobo combination, even if it's on the motherboard QVL, and even when it does work it's usually not meaningfully faster than a decent DDR5-6000 kit. Buildzoid has had one heck of a time trying to get it to work at all on boards that aren't 2-DIMM ITX, and he's the kind of guy who does memory overclocking for fun (it's not fun, it's infuriating). The memory controller on the 9000 series is the same as on the 7000 series and it's not that good, and the infinity fabric is also a bottleneck. If you insist on trying it you'll want an X870 board and probably one of the higher end ones too, and those are just insanely overpriced.
Here's a recent Buildzoid video that goes over it, but in classic Buildzoid fashion he rambles a lot and takes an hour to explain it. It does contain good info though. I watched it on 1.5x speed.
e: there's a fair bit of Hynix M-die that you can get if you buy random DDR5-6000CL30 kits now too, it's not bad exactly but isn't quite as good as A-die. It does clock higher though; if you want 8000 you'll want 24GB Hynix M-die sticks because for some reason those are easier on the memory controller than the 16GB A- and M-die ones.
e2: attempt to summarize Buildzoid:
On AM5 with the Zen4 I/O die you've got three clocks that are relevant to memory overclocking:
- MCLK, the memory clock, which is half the DDR5 transfer rate, so for DDR5-6000 this is 3000 MHz
- UCLK, the memory controller clock (the U is from "unified memory controller" I think)
- FCLK, the infinity fabric clock
On most CPU's FCLK tops out at around 2100-2166 MHz; only exceptional CPU's can run 2200 or 2233 MHz. UCLK tops out at around 3200 on most CPU's, being able to run 3300 is a bit unusual I think. So, if you want to run 1:1 MCLK:UCLK, that is your memory runs at the same speed as the memory controller, then you top out at around DDR5-6400. There is a very slight latency benefit to running FCLK at 2:3 with the UCLK (e.g. 2000 FCLK to 3000 UCLK), but it's not always worth chasing. If your FCLK can run maybe 66 MHz faster it's probably worth doing that instead of staying at a lower speed to keep the 3:2 ratio.
Above DDR5-6400 you usually have to switch MCLK:UCLK into 2:1 mode and that comes with a hefty latency penalty, plus the memory controller itself is actually running slower. It only really becomes worth it above DDR5-7600 or so and many CPU's behave quite differently in 2:1 mode compared to 1:1 mode, and far from all of them work well at 7800 and above.
Also, don't buy anything above 6000 if you're intending to just enable EXPO/XMP without messing with the timings or memory settings manually. Buildzoid says the BIOS will default to 2:1 mode above 6000 so with e.g. a 6400 kit you'll get really shitty latency and a slow memory controller if you're not controlling those settings manually.
e3: a little bit more on FCLK and the 2:3 ratio: what I mean is, if you're at DDR5-6000 and running UCLK 3000, the 2:3 ratio would mean FLCK 2000. But, if your FCLK can run at 2100 fine, just do that instead, it's gonna be faster. Tuning the FCLK is tricky though, because when it starts erroring out it doesn't usually crash straight away, instead it starts retransmitting and makes thing slow and causes latency spikes etc.
bottom line/tl;dr: the recommendation is the same as for the 7000 series; the right answer for everyone who isn't explicitly into memory overclocking is to get a DDR5-6000 CL30 kit. Two sticks, not four.
EU GPU prices are out of whack currently with Black Friday. 7900XT can be found for cheaper than the 7900GRE. Time to retire my 3070 and go team red. I've also got a cheap AliExpress 5700X3D coming to get some more longevity out of AM4.
By bacon Go To PostEU GPU prices are out of whack currently with Black Friday. 7900XT can be found for cheaper than the 7900GRE. Time to retire my 3070 and go team red. I've also got a cheap AliExpress 5700X3D coming to get some more longevity out of AM4.Kind of a crazy buy, when you can have my 4080 (like new condition, still under warranty) for about the same price in like 2 months.
Speaking of black friday, I've been waiting for it to buy a cheapo 2tb m.2 ssd for my storage drive. I'll probably go with the WD SN580, seems pretty good as far as DRAM-less drives go.
By Zabojnik Go To PostWell now you've given me something to think about. Which 4080 have you got?
Kind of a crazy buy, when you can have my 4080 (like new condition, still under warranty) for about the same price in like 2 months.
Speaking of black friday, I've been waiting for it to buy a cheapo 2tb m.2 ssd for my storage drive. I'll probably go with the WD SN580, seems pretty good as far as DRAM-less drives go.
By bacon Go To PostWell now you've given me something to think about. Which 4080 have you got? Gonna PM you.
EDIT: On old Slaent, I guess.
By Zabojnik Go To PostGonna PM you.Pm sent. I'll let you know later tonight.
EDIT: On old Slaent, I guess.
By Lego Go To PostI wish I bought a Steam controller when they were clearing them out for £5 or whatever.Rumoured that they’re making a new one. Dunno how credible the rumour is though.
I’m pretty mixed on the SC in hindsight. I think the design was mostly good, the software is incredible. However given there’s no standardization for how PC games handle mixed inputs, it’ll always be hit and miss from game to game. So not really worth it unless you want to play particular games that work especially well with it.
By Lego Go To PostI wish I bought a Steam controller when they were clearing them out for £5 or whatever.
i always forget where you live, but i got one laying around somewhere barely used i think. not a fan.
By WoodenLung Go To Posti always forget where you live, but i got one laying around somewhere barely used i think. not a fan.I live in the north of England. You can keep the controller though mate, they go for about 350 of your Danish Krone used 👍
By Smokey Go To PostPut an order in for 64GB Trident Royals 😮💨
Want to get a 4TB SSD and then I think I’m set on any incremental updates to the rig
anyone here got opinions on PSUs? what looks better between Cosair's new SF750 and their SF850L?
the new SF750 is ATX 3.1 but I don't really know how important that is. SF850L is larger and noisier, but it's just the price that's tempting me. This is in the fractal ridge which is compatible with SFX-L PSUs, but not sure how much of a fight for space it would be.
lots of info here but I don't know what any of it means lol
I guess the other thing is would I regret 750 instead of 850
the new SF750 is ATX 3.1 but I don't really know how important that is. SF850L is larger and noisier, but it's just the price that's tempting me. This is in the fractal ridge which is compatible with SFX-L PSUs, but not sure how much of a fight for space it would be.
lots of info here but I don't know what any of it means lol
I guess the other thing is would I regret 750 instead of 850
Going by my SF750, I don't think noise should be much of a deciding factor ... I don't know at what wattage / fan speed psus were tested in the example above, but they're for sure both dead silent at idle / low loads and overpowered by gpu / cpu cooler fans at gaming loads. Vapes would know more about space constraints in the Ridge, I imagine.
Atx 3.1 is more of a nice to have than crucial feature at this point.
Atx 3.1 is more of a nice to have than crucial feature at this point.
The Ridge is pretty roomy around the PSU area. I barely cable managed with stock cable lengths and it all fit in nicely with a SF750.
I think you would be fine with a SFX-L, but you’ll need to be more mindful when routing cables. I don’t think it’ll be a struggle though.
Here’s mine, as you can see there’s a big gap between the SFX unit and GPU. The black crossbar does not block cables. You can route along it with some tie points on the rear of it.
I think you would be fine with a SFX-L, but you’ll need to be more mindful when routing cables. I don’t think it’ll be a struggle though.
Here’s mine, as you can see there’s a big gap between the SFX unit and GPU. The black crossbar does not block cables. You can route along it with some tie points on the rear of it.
By Lego Go To PostWhat's that gonna cost? £150?
Damn, I thought it'd be easy to part the WD_SN850x with its heatsink, but they're basically fused together. Would've gone with the heatsink-less version, if I knew. Guess I won't be using the mobo's m.2 cooler. Whatevs.
Everything connected, everything seems to be detected and working fine judgeing by the post leds and codes. Gonna continue tomorrow.
I left all 5 case fans connected to the hub for now, I might detach at least the bottom gpu one, as I've a feeling it might benefit from a custom setup.
Case has been a breeze to work with. I can't really think of anything bad to say about it.
