By diehard Go To Postremember that the VRAM amount is directly related to the memory bus widthWhy is this? Is it a manufacturing thing or engineering? Why does it appear to be different when compared to system ram? This is probably something I'd be better off googling, but if you have a link or two that I could read, that's be great.
By Kibner Go To PostWhy is this? Is it a manufacturing thing or engineering? Why does it appear to be different when compared to system ram? This is probably something I'd be better off googling, but if you have a link or two that I could read, that's be great.Hasn't that always been the problem... there has to be a bottle neck somewhere
By Kibner Go To PostWhy is this? Is it a manufacturing thing or engineering? Why does it appear to be different when compared to system ram? This is probably something I'd be better off googling, but if you have a link or two that I could read, that's be great.I did a quick search and didn't find anything that explained why.
Basically, current BGA GDDR modules operate on 32 bit bus (DIMMs use a 64 bit interface and 8 bit to each chip) and BGA module sizes (like DIMMs and their underlying memory chips) are multiplicative in size.
So you take the total memory bus bit ÷ 32 X module size = resulting VRAM
Here is TU102:
2080Ti (with partially disabled 352 bit interface) ÷ 32 times 8Gb modules = 11GB VRAM
Titan RTX (fully unlocked 384 bit interface) ÷ 32, times 16Gb modules = 24GB VRAM
Quadro 8000 has 32Gb modules and gets to 48GB
So you have to base it on the memory bus width of the full chip, then how many 32 bit memory controller "connections" they will disable to get better yields.
Note: the GTX 970 had some weird segmented shit going on and doesn't apply here. Also sorry for the terribly written math.
I think of mid-range GTX 6XX cards actually had a couple extra memory chips that shared bandwidth with other chips. So there are definitely some exceptions but its a good rule of thumb on what to expect for VRAM sizes. I highly doubt something unorthodoxed like that would be used on a higher end card, because it screw up things like board traces for consistent frequencies.
https://www.protocase.com
Huh, I had no idea these guys existed. This is seriously pushing me to design the fabled air-cooled mITX case I've been thinking of for some time now. Would be a fantastic CAD learning experience as well. Vapes might yet have his day.
Can't imagine it being cheap, but whatevs.
Huh, I had no idea these guys existed. This is seriously pushing me to design the fabled air-cooled mITX case I've been thinking of for some time now. Would be a fantastic CAD learning experience as well. Vapes might yet have his day.
Can't imagine it being cheap, but whatevs.
I hope to fuck that Asus laptop is better than the Zephyrus G G502, and I'm not talking in terms of performance, I mean in general. GF has had so many weird issues with the G502 since I got it her late last year. Keyboard lights randomly turn off, sometimes it locks up on boot and needs a soft reset, etc. Really soured me on Asus laptops in general.
Can def see myself buying a 6c/12t laptop to replace it later in the year.
Can def see myself buying a 6c/12t laptop to replace it later in the year.
Think I might pull the trigger on this tomorrow:
https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/alienware-25-gaming-monitor-aw2521hf/apd/210-avlt/monitors-monitor-accessories#dfs-modal
It's 25'' which would be perfect for a secondary monitor and 1080p, and is a refresh of their older 240hz panel, using IPS instead of TN. "Only $385 at the moment on Dell's site.
e. Or this one
https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/alienware-25-gaming-monitor-aw2521hf/apd/210-avlt/monitors-monitor-accessories#dfs-modal
It's 25'' which would be perfect for a secondary monitor and 1080p, and is a refresh of their older 240hz panel, using IPS instead of TN. "Only $385 at the moment on Dell's site.
e. Or this one
By rerixo Go To Post*desperately shorts nvidia stock*just in case, this is an April fools joke.
By Kabro Go To Postsomeone educate me on why there's a dent on that thing.aesthetics 🤷♀️
mans starts off the video saying he wasn't going to review it, and doesn't even link it in the video.
even told fractal no for a review, and bought it himself lol
--
more relevant vids while im on yt
i really do like that dominator rgb ram. it's what i want to switch to from my trident royals.
even told fractal no for a review, and bought it himself lol
--
more relevant vids while im on yt
i really do like that dominator rgb ram. it's what i want to switch to from my trident royals.
By Smokey Go To Postmans starts off the video saying he wasn't going to review it, and doesn't even link it in the video.Vapes saw it coming
even told fractal no for a review, and bought it himself lol
By HonestVapes Go To PostFractal have fucked it. All anybody wanted from them was a Meshify Nano S, instead they've going with this shite.
Pics: https://smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/fractal-design-era-itx-16-7l-ssf-mainstream-chassis.12777/
The bottom of the case was a red flag straight away for me. The Cougar QBX (case I've owned in the past) suffered from overdesign case feet that lead to poor airflow too. Was a quick fix with some standard case feet, but it was also about a third of the price of the Era. Like I can excuse a need for modding a case when it's cheap, but when it breaks the £100 mark it better be good to go out the box.
Fucking rip to my Model O-. The scroll wheel is fucking up on it.
Edit: Just seems to be the rubber band that's around the wheel. It's come loose from the plastic wheel, so skids around the plastic. Might just cut it off until I can get a replacement band.
Edit: Just seems to be the rubber band that's around the wheel. It's come loose from the plastic wheel, so skids around the plastic. Might just cut it off until I can get a replacement band.
Triple post IDGAF
Took the mouse wheel band off my old Rival 310 and swapped it over to the Model O-
Feels a bit too tight now, but at least it's not skipping scrolls steps. It'll do until I can get a band that'll properly fit anyway.
Took the mouse wheel band off my old Rival 310 and swapped it over to the Model O-
Feels a bit too tight now, but at least it's not skipping scrolls steps. It'll do until I can get a band that'll properly fit anyway.
Imagine it, Vapes.
A custom SFF PC cooled with nothing but sweet, sweet air. Dual 140mm fans at the back for intake, motherboard rotated 90° counterclockwise for easy cable management, either out through the back with all the cables collected in a nice bundle ... or going directly down and routed through a hole in your desk, completely invisible to the eye. Big CPU and GPU heatsink cutouts on both side panels, with heatsinks sitting flush with said panels for that super clean look, which double as exhaust ports. Solid top panel for aesthetics, mesh for maximum cooling / convection.
(quick & dirty mockup)
Of course, the main problem with designing such an enclosure would be the two heatsinks or rather how to get the air to flow over / through them from the inside out. Something like the previously mentioned Noctua NH-C14S would probably do nicely for the CPU ...
... though ideally I'd want something bigger, with substantially more cooling capacity for high-end builds. One idea I'm toying with would be to use Rajintek's Morpheus II heatsinks for both GPU and CPU. It would be hugely beneficial to looks and case simmetry, however I'd have to devise a way to raise the contact plate to make room for fan(s) on the bottom side of the heatsink and for providing a mounting bracket.
Shouldn't be too hard to design and have two rather simple metal / copper blocks with the right holes get made / milled, definitely a lot simpler (and cheaper!) than getting into the whole custom heatsink game. Adding another contact point would probably mean sacrificing a fair chunk of cooling performance, but hopefully not too much. Liquid metal to the rescue, maybe.
Just imagine, Vapinho.
A custom SFF PC cooled with nothing but sweet, sweet air. Dual 140mm fans at the back for intake, motherboard rotated 90° counterclockwise for easy cable management, either out through the back with all the cables collected in a nice bundle ... or going directly down and routed through a hole in your desk, completely invisible to the eye. Big CPU and GPU heatsink cutouts on both side panels, with heatsinks sitting flush with said panels for that super clean look, which double as exhaust ports. Solid top panel for aesthetics, mesh for maximum cooling / convection.
(quick & dirty mockup)
Of course, the main problem with designing such an enclosure would be the two heatsinks or rather how to get the air to flow over / through them from the inside out. Something like the previously mentioned Noctua NH-C14S would probably do nicely for the CPU ...
... though ideally I'd want something bigger, with substantially more cooling capacity for high-end builds. One idea I'm toying with would be to use Rajintek's Morpheus II heatsinks for both GPU and CPU. It would be hugely beneficial to looks and case simmetry, however I'd have to devise a way to raise the contact plate to make room for fan(s) on the bottom side of the heatsink and for providing a mounting bracket.
Shouldn't be too hard to design and have two rather simple metal / copper blocks with the right holes get made / milled, definitely a lot simpler (and cheaper!) than getting into the whole custom heatsink game. Adding another contact point would probably mean sacrificing a fair chunk of cooling performance, but hopefully not too much. Liquid metal to the rescue, maybe.
Just imagine, Vapinho.
Although commendable, last time I saw a Morpheus II on a CPU it didn't look pretty.
Also, you've got to consider where the PSU is going. I know there's a potential location for it in a standard sandwich layout that would give you clearance for a cooler like the Morpheus on the motherboard side. The other issue is that you'd only really be able to fit a single fan on each heatsink if you wanted the heatsinks exposed.
The other issue would be straight up the inefficient use of space. Assuming you forgo the Morpheus II on the CPU and settle for the C14S, that'd be about 115mm of clearance required on the MB side, along with 60mm+ required for the Morpheus on the GPU plus 2 standard fans attached to it.
It'd a pretty wide case overall, wide enough that if it were to be a traditional layout case you'd likely fit a D15 in it.
Edit: Here's the alternative mounting idea for a (SFX) PSU, under the GPU. Just imagine the radiators are massive heatsinks instead.
Also, you've got to consider where the PSU is going. I know there's a potential location for it in a standard sandwich layout that would give you clearance for a cooler like the Morpheus on the motherboard side. The other issue is that you'd only really be able to fit a single fan on each heatsink if you wanted the heatsinks exposed.
The other issue would be straight up the inefficient use of space. Assuming you forgo the Morpheus II on the CPU and settle for the C14S, that'd be about 115mm of clearance required on the MB side, along with 60mm+ required for the Morpheus on the GPU plus 2 standard fans attached to it.
It'd a pretty wide case overall, wide enough that if it were to be a traditional layout case you'd likely fit a D15 in it.
Edit: Here's the alternative mounting idea for a (SFX) PSU, under the GPU. Just imagine the radiators are massive heatsinks instead.
That picture isn't showing up for me. I'm surprised such a large and well performing heatsink is having trouble keeping a CPU cosy.
Well, as a case it obviously wouldn't fall in the 10-15l category, but I'm okay with that, as it would be designed from the ground up around the aforementioned cooling solution. It would most likely end up being my living room HT/VR PC, so likely a 65W CPU + 180W GPU system.
Well, as a case it obviously wouldn't fall in the 10-15l category, but I'm okay with that, as it would be designed from the ground up around the aforementioned cooling solution. It would most likely end up being my living room HT/VR PC, so likely a 65W CPU + 180W GPU system.
By Zabojnik Go To PostThat picture isn't showing up for me. I'm surprised such a large and well performing heatsink is having trouble keeping a CPU cosy.
Well, as a case it obviously wouldn't fall in the 10-15l category, but I'm okay with that, as it would be designed from the ground up around the aforementioned cooling solution. It would most likely end up being my living room HT/VR PC, so likely a 65W CPU + 180W GPU system.
One thing I would look into is taking the layout of the Sliger SM550/560, and using the bottom mounted 120/140mm fans in conjunction with fan ducts to push air through the finstacks on the GPU/CPU heatsinks.
That'd give you the desired look of exposed heatsinks either side of the case, along with only needing 2 active case fans.
Oh, didn't look pretty ... you meant that literally? What the hell is that monstrosity.
Yeah, using ducts was my first idea, but I have my doubts but its thermal effectiveness and noise performance. Funneling air through tight spaces usually results in acoustic messiness. Would need to be tested.
Yeah, using ducts was my first idea, but I have my doubts but its thermal effectiveness and noise performance. Funneling air through tight spaces usually results in acoustic messiness. Would need to be tested.
By Zabojnik Go To PostOh, didn't look pretty … you meant that literally? What the hell is that monstrosity.Y'know those Streacom fanless cases? Mans took the mounting gear from one of those, bent some heatpipes and soldered it all together.
I am familiar with their cooling solution, yes. I was looking into something similar, but it basically all leads to custom heatsinks and the pain and money involved in getting one made. Not worth it for a such an amateurish endeavour. Link me to this madman's project, if you have it.
Here's the proposed layout for the exposed heatsinks, bottom mounted fans. This is a smaller BeQuiet cooler on the CPU, Morpheus II on the GPU.
Fan ducts on the bottom fans would really help out. You'd need solid panels for it though, assuming the bottom fans would be intakes at least. Could use glass/acrylic to show the heatsinks.
If you used the fans as exhausts then I reckon cuts outs in the sides for the heatsinks would be beneficial. It'd allow the fans to pull ambient air directly through the finstack (with proper ducting) and then out the bottom of the case.
Fan ducts on the bottom fans would really help out. You'd need solid panels for it though, assuming the bottom fans would be intakes at least. Could use glass/acrylic to show the heatsinks.
If you used the fans as exhausts then I reckon cuts outs in the sides for the heatsinks would be beneficial. It'd allow the fans to pull ambient air directly through the finstack (with proper ducting) and then out the bottom of the case.
By Zabojnik Go To PostI am familiar with their cooling solution, yes. I was looking into something similar, but it basically all leads to custom heatsinks and the pain and money involved in getting one made. Not worth it for a such an amateurish endeavour. Link me to this madman's project, if you have it.https://smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/modifying-a-raijintek-morpheus-2-for-use-of-a-cpu.12266/
By HonestVapes Go To PostIf you used the fans as exhausts then I reckon cuts outs in the sides for the heatsinks would be beneficial. It'd allow the fans to pull ambient air directly through the finstack (with proper ducting) and then out the bottom of the case.Indeed, that's the core principle behind the idea of having the heatsinks exposed via a cutout in the solid panels. Having an otherwise airtight(-ish) case would probably help with circulation. I'm just not convinced it'd be enough in a decently powerful system and how fast would those two poor fans have to be spinning to keep the whole thing from melting. Also, I really like the rotated mobo / no cables in sight idea.
I'm basically wasting away here at work these days, I'll get some cardboard and start mocking up the various components, start playing around with different configurations, see what I end up with. Think it'll give me a better idea size-wise than going straight to CAD. I'll keep you updated.
Thanks Vapes. <3
By Zabojnik Go To PostIndeed, that's the core principle behind the idea of having the heatsinks exposed via a cutout in the solid panels. Having an otherwise airtight(-ish) case would probably help with circulation. I'm just not convinced it'd be enough in a decently powerful system and how fast would those two poor fans have to be spinning to keep the whole thing from melting. Also, I really like the rotated mobo / no cables in sight idea.
I'm basically wasting away here at work these days, I'll get some cardboard and start mocking up the various components, start playing around with different configurations, see what I end up with size-wise. I'll keep you updated.
Thanks Vapes. <3
There's a list of various sizes for components that may serve you well https://smallformfactor.net/forum/resources/component-space-requirements.27/
There's also some more resources to be found on there for 3D models of components that might be helpful, they're in the sticky thread in "Concepts & Custom Projects".
Also this mouse wheel is driving me nuts.
With the band off the Rival 310, once every full rotation it stiffens up. Feels like it catches on the the shell or something. Went from skipping steps to struggling to even make it register a step.
Edit: Took it apart again, tucked the cable in more and further away from the wheel. Fucking fixed it. Still feels off, but doesn't tighten up anymore.
Should do until the replacement bands I ordered arrive next week.
With the band off the Rival 310, once every full rotation it stiffens up. Feels like it catches on the the shell or something. Went from skipping steps to struggling to even make it register a step.
Edit: Took it apart again, tucked the cable in more and further away from the wheel. Fucking fixed it. Still feels off, but doesn't tighten up anymore.
Should do until the replacement bands I ordered arrive next week.
Grazie Vap, will check it out.
Mouse wheel will no doubt be the top defining feature of my next mouse purchase. I've come to seriously dislike the wheel on my G Pro wireless, the one blemish in an otherwise perfect mouse. The steps are just not clicky and defined enough and it will often get stuck between steps, especially when you're pressing (clicking) the wheel down a whole lot like you do in Apex (pinging), with sometimes dire consequences when it comes to weapon switching (I know, I shouldn't be using it for that, but fuck it, I'm too used to it and too lazy to change).
It simply shouldn't be possible for the the wheel to get stuck between steps. The crap-o Logitech M20 mouse I use at work has it figured out.
If they were to release a G Pro 2 with it fixed, that would be reason enough for me to upgrade.
Mouse wheel will no doubt be the top defining feature of my next mouse purchase. I've come to seriously dislike the wheel on my G Pro wireless, the one blemish in an otherwise perfect mouse. The steps are just not clicky and defined enough and it will often get stuck between steps, especially when you're pressing (clicking) the wheel down a whole lot like you do in Apex (pinging), with sometimes dire consequences when it comes to weapon switching (I know, I shouldn't be using it for that, but fuck it, I'm too used to it and too lazy to change).
It simply shouldn't be possible for the the wheel to get stuck between steps. The crap-o Logitech M20 mouse I use at work has it figured out.
If they were to release a G Pro 2 with it fixed, that would be reason enough for me to upgrade.
By Zabojnik Go To PostGrazie Vap, will check it out.The Model O- was literally perfect for me until earlier today. If I had some glue handy, could've fixed it without any issue.
Mouse wheel will no doubt be the top defining feature of my next mouse purchase. I've come to seriously dislike the wheel on my G Pro wireless, the one blemish in an otherwise perfect mouse. The steps are just not clicky and defined enough and it will often get stuck between steps, especially when you're pressing (clicking) the wheel down a whole lot like you do in Apex (pinging), with sometimes dire consequences when it come to weapon switching. If they were to release a G Pro 2 with a better wheel, that would be enough for me.
Ordered some silicone finger bands. Saw someone use them on a Final Mouse in a YT video awhile ago. I'm hoping they'll be a perfect fit and I can go back to being happy with my mouse.
This is a really great video that talks about a modern Chinese-created PC and the history behind why they exist:
It is incredibly interesting.
It is incredibly interesting.
boys
BOYS
online proctor bullshit made me reposition my desktop...as a result, it wasn't fully under the desk, and unfortunately, I ended up spilling a drink...not much, but just a bit. A drop went through a slot in the fan. My monitor goes off....
Not accepting input from the GPU. Switched to onboard--it's all okay. Took out my GPU and left it to sit for a couple of days, plugged it in to different PCIe slots--it's a no go.
RIP GTX TITAN X
I think I'll be requiring a completely new build, but will want to wait until the next gen stuff pops off so I can be best positioned.
RIP PC gaming.
BOYS
online proctor bullshit made me reposition my desktop...as a result, it wasn't fully under the desk, and unfortunately, I ended up spilling a drink...not much, but just a bit. A drop went through a slot in the fan. My monitor goes off....
Not accepting input from the GPU. Switched to onboard--it's all okay. Took out my GPU and left it to sit for a couple of days, plugged it in to different PCIe slots--it's a no go.
RIP GTX TITAN X
I think I'll be requiring a completely new build, but will want to wait until the next gen stuff pops off so I can be best positioned.
RIP PC gaming.
Not to give you false hope, but you should definitely take your GPU apart, make sure there isn't some residue left causing a short somewhere, clean everything with isopropyl alcohol. Same goes for your motherboard, there might be some liquid left in the PCIE slots.