I’ve got a powered one for charging shit already, so that shouldn’t be an issue. Just wanted to make the USBs on my Alienware useful for any pads or dongles.
Plugged it into the X27 anyway, seems to work fine. My issue now is that after flipping my fans around, one of them has stopped spinning. I think I know the cause, it has happened before with the Noctua extensions I’m using.
Plugged it into the X27 anyway, seems to work fine. My issue now is that after flipping my fans around, one of them has stopped spinning. I think I know the cause, it has happened before with the Noctua extensions I’m using.
By Kibner Go To Postbacon, were you able to determine if you have a hardware issue?I was busy the last couple of days. I managed to run a few short tests yesterday on OCCT. Power test blue screened on me within 5-10 minutes. All the other tests afterwards worked fine, although I haven't had the time to try for more than 15 minutes. I want to run some more thorough tests tomorrow and monitor the power test more carefully as I wasn't paying attention when the PC suddenly blue screened. It has to be either the PSU or motherboard, right? The PSU is around 7 years old so I'm just going to buy a new one. That should hopefully fix this.
Yeah, that might be a good idea. Corsair PSU warranties are apparently 7-10 years so it may be just about that time.
In fact, I'm doing more reading and I would just replace the PSU before even trying to run a game again. Best not to risk it blowing up and taking out other parts with it. I was reading a bunch of posts from this google search: "occt test power supply" and they basically all had the same or similar issues as you. This one in particular: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/psu-failure-or-mobo-occt-tests.3233996/
My pleasure. My only other guess would be inadequate cooling causing a crash. But I figure you know enough to have eliminated that as a possibility.
By Kibner Go To PostMy pleasure. My only other guess would be inadequate cooling causing a crash. But I figure you know enough to have eliminated that as a possibility.Brutal attack on horse by the lad kib
@Zabo, that 3D printed top hat has worked wonders and I've not even cleaned it up yet. Has actually dropped my temps a fair bit. 10c lower at idle, 5c lower under load.
Now with my fans at 25% at idle, I can hear my fucking pump over everything else. Fewmin'
Now with my fans at 25% at idle, I can hear my fucking pump over everything else. Fewmin'
By HonestVapes Go To Post@Zabo, that 3D printed top hat has worked wonders and I've not even cleaned it up yet. Has actually dropped my temps a fair bit. 10c lower at idle, 5c lower under load.I'm kinda curious what the noise would be on that O11 Mini if I had a tiny motherboard and installed all three 280 mm radiators.
Now with my fans at 25% at idle, I can hear my fucking pump over everything else. Fewmin'
I have an Ultrawide arriving today. Hnnnnnnng..
The bad news is it's being delivered by Yodel. So I have an Ultrawide arriving today, if I can find it 6 houses away, and if it hasn't been stolen from someone's garden facing a road and busy pedestrian path.
The bad news is it's being delivered by Yodel. So I have an Ultrawide arriving today, if I can find it 6 houses away, and if it hasn't been stolen from someone's garden facing a road and busy pedestrian path.
Allah will guide the ultrawide home. Do not worry.
I am sure there are some alternatives, but I recommend buying displayfusion.
I am sure there are some alternatives, but I recommend buying displayfusion.
By Kibner Go To PostI'm kinda curious what the noise would be on that O11 Mini if I had a tiny motherboard and installed all three 280 mm radiators.
I reckon the only thing audible at all would be pump, so a D5 would be the play.
Realistically, at idle you’d only need two out of the six fans running to keep temps in check. Noctua’s newer A12x25/x15 fans have a zero RPM mode, not sure if their older models do but I’d assume so.
So two fans at 500RPM, all six at 800-1000RPM at full load. Probably best to go with Hardware Labs radiators since from what I’ve read, they’re really efficient at a low RPM.
The D5 pump would need some isolation from the case to keep noise as low as possible. There’s a pretty huge difference in noise levels between an isolated and non-isolated pump. Can be as high as 15dB with some DDC pumps for instance. One favourable thing about that O11 Mini is oddly enough all the glass, since it should damped the internal noise to an extent.
Then beyond that, if any of your parts emit coil whine, you’ll likely hear that over the fans and possibly pump. Again, the case may dampen it enough though.
By HonestVapes Go To Post@Zabo, that 3D printed top hat has worked wonders and I've not even cleaned it up yet. Has actually dropped my temps a fair bit. 10c lower at idle, 5c lower under load.Noise. Plus it's biodegradable plastic, which is pretty cool, if utterly inconsequential in the grand scheme of things.
Now with my fans at 25% at idle, I can hear my fucking pump over everything else. Fewmin'
It's high time someone came up with a noiseless pump design, these D5 pumps have reigned for long enough. Apparently there are tons of potential patent infringement issues circulating the whole pump-on-heatsink design though, so most companies don't dare go near it.
I'm actually surprised there don't seem to be many D5 noise isolation solutions out there. I remember researching this very topic years and years ago, when I was considering water cooling.
There’s quieter pumps out there, problem is once you’ve go past a certain number of components in the loop, they run into flow issues.
I really like Alphacool’s DC-LT 2600RPM pump, but two radiators, two QDCs, a CPU and GPU block is just too much for it.
Next best solution is just adequate vibration isolation. I think it was in a video by DIYPerks where he suspended the pump via elastic bands. Taking it a bit far, but on the right track with that kind of solution.
I really like Alphacool’s DC-LT 2600RPM pump, but two radiators, two QDCs, a CPU and GPU block is just too much for it.
Next best solution is just adequate vibration isolation. I think it was in a video by DIYPerks where he suspended the pump via elastic bands. Taking it a bit far, but on the right track with that kind of solution.
All this talk has got me proper in the mood to redo my own loop now.
ZMT tubing, thicker radiator, new fittings, black Noctuas, D5 pump. That’s the plan.
Don’t feel the need to go with an external radiator anymore giving how my temps have improved and the noise via fans isn’t even a concern.
ZMT tubing, thicker radiator, new fittings, black Noctuas, D5 pump. That’s the plan.
Don’t feel the need to go with an external radiator anymore giving how my temps have improved and the noise via fans isn’t even a concern.
By rerixo Go To PosthnnngFantastic case, but I'm not a fan of the 2-part face panel design. Kinda ruins the monolithic look a bit. Don't think there's a function to it either?
By Zabojnik Go To PostFantastic case, but I'm not a fan of the 2-part face panel design. Kinda ruins the monolithic look a bit. Don't think there's a function to it either?yeah i'm not a fan of it either, but don't mind that much. i think it's mainly to accomodate future designs where the panels are different colours, I saw a render of a grey and white version which is probably coming later. they look pretty bad though imo, i'd rather the maker just focus on increasing supply since it sounds like it'll be hard to get one.
By rerixo Go To Post
hnnng
I’m not feeling it. I don’t see what purpose it really serves considering what else is available.
Though it’ll be a lot easier to get your hands on than a Ghost S1 is.
main thing for me is just that it's cheaper. spending so much on cases just feels bad lol
also the ghost s1 with tophat just looks ridiculous to me
also the ghost s1 with tophat just looks ridiculous to me
Mate, if you want cheaper, get onto Taobao. It's full of knock offs with actually decent build quality for half the price you'd pay for the "real" case.
Like this "SGPC K55"
Or if you want an NCase knock off, the K77
Like this "SGPC K55"
Or if you want an NCase knock off, the K77
Going to upgrade my old ass GTX 760, what are some good GPUs if I'm just looking to run Doom Eternal at max on 1080p 60fps, with around $200 of a budget? Been eyeing the 1060ti or similar
By Xpike Go To PostGoing to upgrade my old ass GTX 760, what are some good GPUs if I'm just looking to run Doom Eternal at max on 1080p 60fps, with around $200 of a budget? Been eyeing the 1060ti or similar
AT LEAST two 2080s in SLI, bare minimum.
Likely a 1660 Super ($230) or a Radeon 5500 XT ($180). The latter performs a fair bit worse depending on the game, near identical in performance to a RX 580/590 but has a lower TDP.
By HonestVapes Go To PostThe dust filters on my previous cases have done a nice job of keeping the vast majority of dust out of the inside of the case. I do shake them clean outside every few months, though.
So what's the point of dust filters?
By Kibner Go To PostThe dust filters on my previous cases have done a nice job of keeping the vast majority of dust out of the inside of the case. I do shake them clean outside every few months, though.
Suppose it depends on the type of filter. I gave up on them after my experience with Core V21 case’s filters, and DemciFlex filters.
The latter not only didn’t keep dust out, but also choked temps out by around 10 degrees.
By HonestVapes Go To PostSuppose it depends on the type of filter. I gave up on them after my experience with Core V21 case’s filters, and DemciFlex filters.Yeah, case design and filter design are both very important in how effective they are. My experience is with the Antec P180 and my current Silverstone FT02 and their stock filters.
The latter not only didn’t keep dust out, but also choked temps out by around 10 degrees.
Man, the P180 showed everyone how to do front panel intake and not many learned from them. lol All it takes is just one inch or so of clear intake space between the fans and the front. That's it!
By HonestVapes Go To PostAT LEAST two 2080s in SLI, bare minimum.Was looking at this one, but who knows how good it is
Likely a 1660 Super ($230) or a Radeon 5500 XT ($180). The latter performs a fair bit worse depending on the game, near identical in performance to a RX 580/590 but has a lower TDP.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4KGTNI/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_10?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
By Xpike Go To PostWas looking at this one, but who knows how good it is
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4KGTNI/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_10?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Yikes. Don’t go near a 1050Ti or 1650 unless you’re banging it in an old Optiplex or don’t really know any better (like me when I bought one years ago).
An RX 570 is much better performance than it and can be had for much less. The more modern 5500 XT is only $20 more than that particular 1050Ti and it assuredly outperform both.
So my Ultrawide arrived yesterday and Yodel actually managed to deliver it. To my door, no less! They even knocked. Wonderful.
It's stunning. Ultrawide is so nice. Haven't really dug into a game properly with it yet, but I gave Doom a spin (which is one of my favourite games anyway, but I keep seeing is a reference for both UW and 100hz+) and it was superb.
Had to spend a bit of time configuring things though. I was really worried about the performance at first, as it looked really hitchy and stuttery. Like, the frame counter displayed it running at well over 100hz but it looked less smooth or stable than 45fps or something. I read that this is a fairly common issue with the BenQ EX3501R and that setting it to 99hz is a fix. This seemed to improve things quite a lot and everything was much more smooth. Definitely a weird thing though and had me going at the start.
It's stunning. Ultrawide is so nice. Haven't really dug into a game properly with it yet, but I gave Doom a spin (which is one of my favourite games anyway, but I keep seeing is a reference for both UW and 100hz+) and it was superb.
Had to spend a bit of time configuring things though. I was really worried about the performance at first, as it looked really hitchy and stuttery. Like, the frame counter displayed it running at well over 100hz but it looked less smooth or stable than 45fps or something. I read that this is a fairly common issue with the BenQ EX3501R and that setting it to 99hz is a fix. This seemed to improve things quite a lot and everything was much more smooth. Definitely a weird thing though and had me going at the start.
By HonestVapes Go To PostGet rid of the RGB and that’d actually look sound tbhFuck.
Off.
By HonestVapes Go To PostGet rid of the RGB and that’d actually look sound tbh
I mean, without the RGB, could one still even reasonably call it a Geforce Battlestation?
TR3990X reviews are coming out and it is pretty ridiculous in applications that support that many threads. Also has pretty dang good single thread performance. It apparently does have an issue with some of the targeted audience in that it may be difficult to get more than 256 GB of the desired type of ram. Linus touched on that aspect.
By NinjaFridge Go To PostFuck.
Off.
The living room is no place to be RGBallin' on the whole fam.
New DAN case design is looking pretty good. Allows for a traditional or sandwich case layout, either way can also be inverted.
In my long and repeated adventures of overclocking my RAM, I finally took my time (a couple weeks) and have a fast enough RAM speed that I know is stable.
I could maybe bump it a bit faster, but I would have to loosen up the timings, which is a no-no on Ryzen, or start messing with all those non-timing settings and I just don't want to spend the time for that. I also updated my BIOS with the latest update hoping for better RAM compatibility.
I started at 2933 with the "fast" timings and confirmed it didn't have any errors with Karhu's RAM test as it ran overnight (reached like 16-18,000% coverage). I would repeat that the following night after bumping the RAM up to the next frequency step. I really don't feel like spending the time to push things even faster than that.
I could maybe bump it a bit faster, but I would have to loosen up the timings, which is a no-no on Ryzen, or start messing with all those non-timing settings and I just don't want to spend the time for that. I also updated my BIOS with the latest update hoping for better RAM compatibility.
I started at 2933 with the "fast" timings and confirmed it didn't have any errors with Karhu's RAM test as it ran overnight (reached like 16-18,000% coverage). I would repeat that the following night after bumping the RAM up to the next frequency step. I really don't feel like spending the time to push things even faster than that.
I need to get into RAM overclocking and tweaking timings, The exact kit of B die I have is according to 8Pack and Buildzoid, "the good shit". Should do 3600mhz without a fuss, can be pushed beyond 4000mhz with a bit of voltage for benchmarks with loosened timings. I just can't be arsed putting the time and effort in when with the default XMP settings it does CL14 at 3200mhz, plus I want to upgrade to 32Gb so it seems like a time sink to get into it yet.
By HonestVapes Go To PostI need to get into RAM overclocking and tweaking timings, The exact kit of B die I have is according to 8Pack and Buildzoid, "the good shit". Should do 3600mhz without a fuss, can be pushed beyond 4000mhz with a bit of voltage for benchmarks with loosened timings. I just can't be arsed putting the time and effort in when with the default XMP settings it does CL14 at 3200mhz, plus I want to upgrade to 32Gb so it seems like a time sink to get into it yet.Haha this post cracked me up
I have no idea what you're saying