By Zabojnik Go To Post25mm vs 30mm though, right? Not exactly a fair comparison. Close enough that most people building in cases that aren't starved for space won't and shouldn't care, but still.
All’s fair in fans and airflow.
Though after eyeballing my set up, I’d be unable to use the 30mm fans with my current 240mm radiator. I maxed out the 80mm clearance with 25mm fans and a 54mm radiator.
Still gonna try though. Worst case scenario, I may have to swap out my 54mm rad for my spare 30mm rad. Might even cool better at lower fan speeds.
Sounds like the Alder Lake i5 wont be following the hybrid approach and will just have 6 performance cores
NCase M1 is ded. End of an era.
https://ncases.com/blogs/news/farewell-m1-classic
FAREWELL M1 CLASSIC!
Due to various factors, we have decided not to order another batch of M1 at this time. This means the current M1 design, or M1 *Classic, is effectively end of life, and we will not have any more M1 Classic cases or parts available to order. It's had a good eight year run, but evolving component requirements and shifts in the market have made it a less compelling option in recent times. We apologize to anyone who wasn't able to order an M1 Classic before stock ran out. The decision not to reorder was a difficult choice.
We want to stress that this is not the end of NCASE, but an opportunity for something new. We do have new products in development, to that end, we are not ready to comment on current production or time estimates. The NCASE website and M1 product page will remain up for the time being for informational purposes.
Thanks to all of our supporters and customers over the years.
Team NCASE
https://ncases.com/blogs/news/farewell-m1-classic
less compelling? isn't it still considered one of the best sff cases? interested in what they come up with next anyway
the formd t1 case is expected to launch its v2 soon (well it'll probably be delayed), with a ncase style layout option instead of sandwich. might be the case i go for with alderlake if temps are any good.
the formd t1 case is expected to launch its v2 soon (well it'll probably be delayed), with a ncase style layout option instead of sandwich. might be the case i go for with alderlake if temps are any good.
I think the NR200P ate it’s lunch tbh. it’s bigger, but the expanded hardware compatibility, price and included options for vertical GPU mount and tempered glass side panels really was hard to say no to if you wanted a NCase layout ITX case.
Guess my NCase V5 is officially a collectors item now. Might pull it back out for a future build one day. If I ever get tired of my big boy Q37.
Guess my NCase V5 is officially a collectors item now. Might pull it back out for a future build one day. If I ever get tired of my big boy Q37.
https://www.pcgamingrace.com/blogs/news/introducing-model-o-wireless-model-d-wireless-pre-orders-open-10-27
The goat mouse is finally here in wireless
The goat mouse is finally here in wireless
I should've been more aggressive on the undervolt curve on my 2080Ti. For a long time now I've left it at 900mv/1905mhz, but after some playing around and testing it easily does 1905mhz at 875mv. Power draw is 220-230w at 99% usage, even with ray tracing enabled.
When I got the card in 2018, it'd butt against the 280w power limit, the clockspeed was anywhere from 1650mhz to 1850mhz.
Gained performance.
Lowered temperatures.
Reduced power draw.
Why isn't your GPU undervolted?
When I got the card in 2018, it'd butt against the 280w power limit, the clockspeed was anywhere from 1650mhz to 1850mhz.
Gained performance.
Lowered temperatures.
Reduced power draw.
Why isn't your GPU undervolted?
By HonestVapes Go To PostWhy isn't your GPU undervolted?
cause i am pro climate change
By SavageGordonLung Go To Postcause i am pro climate change#respect
I have been part of the community for decades
evga emailed me saying that my spot in the queue is up... for a 3060. i could have sworn i signed up for the 3080, but maybe i selected multiple options. cost £370 in total, which doesn't even seem like a great deal for what it is, but in this climate i guess i'll take what i can get. not sure if i'll actually keep it yet, my monitor is 4k so really need a 3080 or stronger. might just give it to my brother. stil... felt good just being able to buy a gpu
Congrats. They emailed me the other day, telling me to edit my queue, as you're only allowed to have 2 cards in it. I didn't even know that the 'notify' option counted as being entered in the queue when I hit it way back in November of last year.
Got two XC3 Ultra 3080s lined up, hopefully my time's up before RTX 5000 launches.
Got two XC3 Ultra 3080s lined up, hopefully my time's up before RTX 5000 launches.
By Zabojnik Go To PostCongrats. They emailed me the other day, telling me to edit my queue, as you're only allowed to have 2 cards in it. I didn't even know that the 'notify' option counted as being entered in the queue when I hit it way back in November of last year.Two? How generous of you
Got two XC3 Ultra 3080s lined up, hopefully my time's up before RTX 5000 launches.
So I pulled out my dirty ill gotten profits from ethereum and I’m now kinda on board with upgrading to a 3080, possibly 3080Ti if Scan gets the stock in.
Kinda, I’m still happy with the performance of my 2080Ti honestly. I just want to do something with my PC again. It’s been over a year since I moved everything over to the Q37 and re-did my loop.
I might just go in on modding the case further. It’s been at the back of my mind for a good while now. I really want to add a vertical GPU mount and max out the bottom radiator potential of 60mm (fans and rad). There’s also a Bykski block for the 2080Ti I’ve had my eye on for over a year.
Plus fans. I love Noctua’s products but these brown things no longer cut it when there’s chromax black options and Phanteks T30s to be had.
I want my shit to look good, yeno?
I might just go in on modding the case further. It’s been at the back of my mind for a good while now. I really want to add a vertical GPU mount and max out the bottom radiator potential of 60mm (fans and rad). There’s also a Bykski block for the 2080Ti I’ve had my eye on for over a year.
Plus fans. I love Noctua’s products but these brown things no longer cut it when there’s chromax black options and Phanteks T30s to be had.
I want my shit to look good, yeno?
If you're not adding an LCD / OLED monitoring display with custom graphics, what are you even doing?
With the block ordered. I need to decide on fans, I might just go with 4 Arctic P12s to keep everything uniform. Those Phanteks definitely won’t fit on my 54mm radiator at the top and I don’t really want to get rid of it. They would fit on the bottom radiator though, however I don’t think two different sets of fans would look good.
I could mount the T30s externally to the bottom of the case, the 54mm rad internally at the bottom and then use the 30mm spare rad I have at the top with some T30s. £120 on fans tho, What Would Smokey Do?
I could mount the T30s externally to the bottom of the case, the 54mm rad internally at the bottom and then use the 30mm spare rad I have at the top with some T30s. £120 on fans tho, What Would Smokey Do?
It’s just 120 brexits. You’ll make it back next paycheck.
Also We still talking about the 2080ti Vapes plssss
https://wccftech.com/intel-officially-launches-12th-gen-alder-lake-unlocked-cpus-z690-platform-on-4th-november-unveiling-next-week/
A few more weeks bois, until I make my return to da game
Also We still talking about the 2080ti Vapes plssss
https://wccftech.com/intel-officially-launches-12th-gen-alder-lake-unlocked-cpus-z690-platform-on-4th-november-unveiling-next-week/
A few more weeks bois, until I make my return to da game
By Smokey Go To PostIt’s just 120 brexits. You’ll make it back next paycheck.
Also We still talking about the 2080ti Vapes plssss
Unless I catch the 3080 FE from Scan for £650-£700, I’m not interested in upgrading. Though AIB cards are much easier to get now, they’re going for £1100 minimum. £2000 minimum for an AIB 3090, etc.
Performance-wise though, I’m still happy with the 2080Ti. Biggest QoL upgrade would be from HDMI 2.1 on the new cards.
https://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/software/deathloop_patch_1_tested_-_dlss_vs_fsr_and_more/3
To really hammer home the difference between DLSS and FSR, this is DLSS Performance (internal 1080p res) vs FSR Ultra Quality (internal 1662p if I recall correctly)
To really hammer home the difference between DLSS and FSR, this is DLSS Performance (internal 1080p res) vs FSR Ultra Quality (internal 1662p if I recall correctly)
Scan really came through with the 3080Ti stock and I was fucking here for it. Forget everything I’ve previously said, I’m ascending come Thursday.
By HonestVapes Go To Posthttps://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/software/deathloop_patch_1_tested_-_dlss_vs_fsr_and_more/3
To really hammer home the difference between DLSS and FSR, this is DLSS Performance (internal 1080p res) vs FSR Ultra Quality (internal 1662p if I recall correctly)
Jesus
Guess I’ll be returning that 2080Ti waterblock now. Selling it too if any UKbois are interested. It’s been well looked after over the last 3 years.
Still have the original box and cooler for it.
Getting an FE changes up my build plans a lot now though. I’ll be keeping it on air for a while, until I’m confident that it’s got no issues.
Gonna need to redo my loop and make it CPU only for the foreseeable future, but it’ll definitely be going on water eventually. Likely with an Alphacool block.
Still have the original box and cooler for it.
Getting an FE changes up my build plans a lot now though. I’ll be keeping it on air for a while, until I’m confident that it’s got no issues.
Gonna need to redo my loop and make it CPU only for the foreseeable future, but it’ll definitely be going on water eventually. Likely with an Alphacool block.
By JesalR Go To PostThanks Vapes, picked up a 3080ti FE from Scan for RRP. Time to build the rest of the machine too.
FE Gang representing
So what are we saying these days, AMD or Intel on the CPU side / what's worth going for with about £950 in budget for the rest of the machine.
By HonestVapes Go To PostUnless I catch the 3080 FE from Scan for £650-£700, I’m not interested in upgrading. Though AIB cards are much easier to get now, they’re going for £1100 minimum. £2000 minimum for an AIB 3090, etc.
Performance-wise though, I’m still happy with the 2080Ti. Biggest QoL upgrade would be from HDMI 2.1 on the new cards.
By HonestVapes Go To PostScan really came through with the 3080Ti stock and I was fucking here for it. Forget everything I’ve previously said, I’m ascending come Thursday.
I knew my words of encouragement would set u str8 m8 🙃
By JesalR Go To PostSo what are we saying these days, AMD or Intel on the CPU side / what's worth going for with about £950 in budget for the rest of the machine.Intel has the better budget chips, atm.
By JesalR Go To PostSo what are we saying these days, AMD or Intel on the CPU side / what's worth going for with about £950 in budget for the rest of the machine.
By Kibner Go To PostIntel has the better budget chips, atm.What he said ^
Has been that way for a while now too. The 10400F/11400F at £140-£160 is the budget CPU king.
Though you can get a Ryzen 1600 AF still for around £120, the performance difference isn't worth the money saved in my opinion, unless you're really tight on the budget. Ryzen 3600 have up and disappeared, so they're no longer worth mentioning. Last time I did see them in stock, they were more expensive than the 10400F.
The Ryzen 5600G for £220 is kinda worthwhile for a short term APU build if you plan on adding a GPU later down the line. Generally though, buying with the intention to upgrade later costs more overall. Not ideal for "budget" builds.
When I put together a £900 PC for my gf last year, I went with the 10400F, RTX 2060KO, ASRock Z490 ITX board (cheapest option for RAM OC), NZXT H1. Reused a 2x8GB set of Team Group DDR4. Some things have changed since. I don't believe you need a Z series board for RAM OC on Intel platforms with the 11XXX series CPUs, and you know GPU prices have become absurd.
Right now, I'd go with something along these lines. If the option for a 3060 or 3060Ti presents itself though, easy swap out that RX 6600 out for one of those.
PCPartPicker Part List: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/3Csbqp
CPU: Intel Core i5-11400F 2.6 GHz 6-Core Processor (£161.49 @ Scan.co.uk)
Motherboard: ASRock B560M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1200 Motherboard (£94.87 @ CCL Computers)
Memory: Team T-FORCE VULCAN TUF Gaming Allian 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL19 Memory (£67.09 @ More Computers)
Storage: Crucial P2 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (£68.69 @ Overclockers.co.uk)
Video Card: ASRock Radeon RX 6600 XT 8 GB Challenger D OC Video Card (£389.99 @ CCL Computers)
Case: Lian Li LANCOOL 205 Mesh ATX Mid Tower Case (£65.55 @ CCL Computers)
Power Supply: SeaSonic CORE GM 500 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply (£48.99 @ Technextday)
Total: £896.67
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-10-19 13:38 BST+0100
Thanks! But the £950 budget it for the rest of the machine, excluding the GPU. Total budget at around £2k
By JesalR Go To PostThanks! But the £950 budget it for the rest of the machine, excluding the GPU. Total budget at around £2kIn that case, you could really go whichever way you want in terms of Intel or AMD for a 6 or 8 core part. 16GB or 32GB for memory, etc.
I ran an example through partpicker, not something I'd actually recommend to go but I just wanted to see how it priced up.
PCPartPicker Part List: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/7zmdsX
CPU: Intel Core i7-11700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor (£329.00 @ Infinite Computing)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 chromax.black 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler (£89.99 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z590 GAMING X ATX LGA1200 Motherboard (£149.99 @ CCL Computers)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory (£64.99 @ Corsair UK)
Storage: Sabrent Rocket Q4 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (£129.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Lian Li LANCOOL 215 ATX Mid Tower Case (£83.00 @ Computer Orbit)
Power Supply: EVGA G5 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£79.99 @ CCL Computers)
Total: £926.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-10-19 13:58 BST+0100
Personally, I wouldn't bother with a PCIE4.0 SSD. Few scenarios really make it worthwhile. I'd also say it's really a toss up for whether you should go with a Ryzen 5600X/5800X or Intel 11600K/11700K. Really depends on your use cases for the PC since there's pros and cons each way and the prices are pretty close between all 4 parts.
Cooling is a personally preference thing too. You def don't need to spend £90 on a D15 to keep the CPU cool, but it is a solid choice. Same with the case, my only recommend there is get something that's got good airflow and that you like the look of.
Kinda shocked by the lack of options for 3080/Ti FE waterblocks.
There’s the fancy EKWB for £250, one from Corsair, one from Alphacool and one from Bykski. That’s all I’ve found so far.
There’s the fancy EKWB for £250, one from Corsair, one from Alphacool and one from Bykski. That’s all I’ve found so far.
Cheers Vapes. If the CPUs are a toss-up, I'll go with Intel to use QuickSync for Plex transcoding. Rest of the build looks cool. Doing some case research since one of the stipulations for my parter was that this thing doesn't sound nuts.
By Laboured Go To PostGoing to be a banging work PC.Needs to be able to open at least 12 Chrome Tabs
Probably worth waiting for Intel to show off the Alder Lake chips next week, should be good and should hopefully force AMD to drop their prices at least a bit.
By JesalR Go To PostCheers Vapes. If the CPUs are a toss-up, I'll go with Intel to use QuickSync for Plex transcoding. Rest of the build looks cool. Doing some case research since one of the stipulations for my parter was that this thing doesn't sound nuts.
Needs to be able to open at least 12 Chrome Tabs
I gotchu in that regard. Fans, heatsinks, undervolting to reduce power draw and noise. That shit’s my jam. I’ll get back to you with another build shortly.
Thanks Vapes, it's been 15 years since I last built a machine, so it feels like a lot has happened in the world that I've just not cared about. Undervolting seems counter intuitive to what I used to know.
By Pedja Go To PostProbably worth waiting for Intel to show off the Alder Lake chips next week, should be good and should hopefully force AMD to drop their prices at least a bit.Good shout. Looking at the price of the 10700, I'm assuming Intel tend not to drop the price of their old models that quickly after a new gen?
By JesalR Go To PostThanks Vapes, it's been 15 years since I last built a machine, so it feels like a lot has happened in the world that I've just not cared about. Undervolting seems counter intuitive to what I used to know.
Good shout. Looking at the price of the 10700, I'm assuming Intel tend not to drop the price of their old models that quickly after a new gen?
Intel are cunts when it comes to pricing like that. Anyway, here we are.
PCPartPicker Part List: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/xRT4y4
CPU: Intel Core i7-11700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor (£329.00 @ Infinite Computing)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler (£65.68 @ Amazon UK) Beefy air cooler, should cool without issue or much noise at stock settings.
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z590 GAMING X ATX LGA1200 Motherboard (£149.99 @ CCL Computers) Middle of the road Z590 board to give you full access to undervolting, overclocking, etc.
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory (£64.99 @ Corsair UK) Assuming 16GB is enough?
Storage: Crucial P5 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (£97.58 @ Amazon UK) PCIE Gen 3 drive, if you need more storage then it's up to you if you want to cut back elsewhere or upgrade at a later date.
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti 12 GB XC3 ULTRA GAMING iCX3 Video Card (£0.00) Placeholder so you can see the power usage estimate in PCPP.
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case (£73.98 @ Amazon UK) Just a good looking case (imo) that's got good enough airflow.
Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£99.98 @ Scan.co.uk)
Case Fan: ARCTIC P14 72.8 CFM 140 mm Fan (£11.10 @ Amazon UK)
Case Fan: ARCTIC P14 72.8 CFM 140 mm Fan (£11.10 @ Amazon UK)
Case Fan: ARCTIC P14 72.8 CFM 140 mm Fan (£11.10 @ Amazon UK) 3x quiet case fans to replace whatever bullshit Fractal ship with their case. 2x for the front, 1x for the rear.
Total: £914.50
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-10-19 15:09 BST+0100
Looks great. Stuff like memory and more storage are things I can chip in later down the line.
Noticed you've recommended air cooling there. Any reason to choose an AIO water cooler instead, or is the fan good enough from a cooling/noise perspective? Was looking at something like the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 240mm, which seems reasonably cheap too. Sorry for all the Qs, just been a while
Noticed you've recommended air cooling there. Any reason to choose an AIO water cooler instead, or is the fan good enough from a cooling/noise perspective? Was looking at something like the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 240mm, which seems reasonably cheap too. Sorry for all the Qs, just been a while
By JesalR Go To PostLooks great. Stuff like memory and more storage are things I can chip in later down the line.I've no strong preference for air over water or vice versa, however when it comes to keeping things quiet, most people tend to pick up on pump noise which just isn't a factor with air coolers. I've had limited experience personally with AIOs, but I do know the Arctic LFII range are well regarded due to the fans and radiator thickness.
Noticed you've recommended air cooling there. Any reason to choose an AIO water cooler instead, or is the fan good enough from a cooling/noise perspective? Was looking at something like the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 240mm, which seems reasonably cheap too. Sorry for all the Qs, just been a while
With some changes to the above list, and after double checking the dimensions of the FE card and radiator+fan combo. This would work quiet well.
PCPartPicker Part List: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/DGJz2V
CPU: Intel Core i7-11700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor (£329.00 @ Infinite Computing)
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 280 72.8 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (£77.39 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z590 GAMING X ATX LGA1200 Motherboard (£149.99 @ CCL Computers)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory (£64.99 @ Corsair UK)
Storage: Crucial P5 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (£97.58 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti 12 GB XC3 ULTRA GAMING iCX3 Video Card (£0.00)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify 2 Compact TG Dark Tint ATX Mid Tower Case (£99.60 @ More Computers)
Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£99.98 @ Scan.co.uk)
Total: £918.53
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-10-19 15:41 BST+0100
This list drops the additional fans and instead, you can front mount the 280mm AIO. The case has 360mm of total clearance for the GPU, the AIO is 65mm so you're left with 295mm. Your GPU is 285mm. I'd be comfortable with that clearance personally.
The good air coolers are almost within margin of error with aio's at similar noise levels and are less prone to failure. And cheaper.
Undervolting is a thing now because modern parts are really good about overclocking themselves until all available thermal and power headroom is used. But they use "safe" voltages that will work on every chip. You undervolt in order to increase the headroom your parts have to self-oc. Combine that with limiting the power draw and you can have cpu's and gpu's use 25% less power (and generate 25% less heat!) for like 2% performance penalty.
Assuming you win the silicon lottery, anyway.
Undervolting is a thing now because modern parts are really good about overclocking themselves until all available thermal and power headroom is used. But they use "safe" voltages that will work on every chip. You undervolt in order to increase the headroom your parts have to self-oc. Combine that with limiting the power draw and you can have cpu's and gpu's use 25% less power (and generate 25% less heat!) for like 2% performance penalty.
Assuming you win the silicon lottery, anyway.
I’d say the amount of wattage you can reduce will vary from card to card based on silicon quality but you should never see any performance degradation with a correctly set undervolt curve compared to stock performance.
Bearing in mind that stock performance will vary from card to card due to the differences in silicon quality. So stock performance is relative to the way the specific card you plan to undervolt runs out of the box and it’s not something you can cross reference with a benchmark of the same model card online.
**At least in regards to Nvidia 900/1000/2000/3000 cards.
***AMD GPUs behave differently.
****3000 series AMD CPUs do lose performance when undervolted, and it’s not something I’d recommend.
Bearing in mind that stock performance will vary from card to card due to the differences in silicon quality. So stock performance is relative to the way the specific card you plan to undervolt runs out of the box and it’s not something you can cross reference with a benchmark of the same model card online.
**At least in regards to Nvidia 900/1000/2000/3000 cards.
***AMD GPUs behave differently.
****3000 series AMD CPUs do lose performance when undervolted, and it’s not something I’d recommend.
Since we're on the topic, here's an example of good undervolting.
At stock, 1920mhz requires 1012mv. When auto-overclocked, 1920mhz requires 937mv. When manually undervolted, that comes down further and 1920mhz only requires 875mv.
At stock or overclocked, the card is power limited and will draw as much as allowed, 250w or 290w with the power slider maxed out. Due to the power limit, 1900mhz is about as high as it can go, but that clockspeed bounces up and down due to said power limit. With the undervolt, the clockspeed is a consistent 1920mhz-1905mhz, with the power draw never exceeding 230w. a 20w to 60w reduction in power while maintaining a higher average clockspeed.
Stock
Overclocked
Undervolted
You can apply this method to any clockspeed that your card can actually run at. If your card can hit 2000mhz or higher at stock or overclocked and you want to maintain that clockspeed, you can adjust the voltage/frequency curve at any point to allow for that. Providing the voltage is still high enough to maintain stability.
Likewise, you can go the other way and downclock the card to something like 1800mhz to push the voltage down further and save further on power consumption. Not something I recommend since this cuts into performance, but it's a viable solution sometimes.
At stock, 1920mhz requires 1012mv. When auto-overclocked, 1920mhz requires 937mv. When manually undervolted, that comes down further and 1920mhz only requires 875mv.
At stock or overclocked, the card is power limited and will draw as much as allowed, 250w or 290w with the power slider maxed out. Due to the power limit, 1900mhz is about as high as it can go, but that clockspeed bounces up and down due to said power limit. With the undervolt, the clockspeed is a consistent 1920mhz-1905mhz, with the power draw never exceeding 230w. a 20w to 60w reduction in power while maintaining a higher average clockspeed.
Stock
Overclocked
Undervolted
You can apply this method to any clockspeed that your card can actually run at. If your card can hit 2000mhz or higher at stock or overclocked and you want to maintain that clockspeed, you can adjust the voltage/frequency curve at any point to allow for that. Providing the voltage is still high enough to maintain stability.
Likewise, you can go the other way and downclock the card to something like 1800mhz to push the voltage down further and save further on power consumption. Not something I recommend since this cuts into performance, but it's a viable solution sometimes.
By HonestVapes Go To Post*good points*Yeah, I should have been more explicit with the "Combine that with limiting the power draw [...]" part. Which you can do on both brands most recent CPUs, iirc.