In addition to that Massdrop Plus I linked earlier, it looks like these are other ones that are worth looking at in a similar or cheaper price range:
- Etymotic ER2SE
- Etymotic ER2XR
- AKG N400 (bluetooth)
- Etymotic ER2SE
- Etymotic ER2XR
- AKG N400 (bluetooth)
By reilo Go To PostI think I had it wrong: I need a 6.3mm (1/4") TRS plug and roughly 6ft+I have found it difficult to find quality cables with specific criteria like this so I often use https://www.redco.com/home.php to build what I want for me. You can pick from different physical cables, get a completely custom length, and pick what connectors you want for either end of the cable. And there are a ton of options for all of this.
For instance, this uses 5' of a cable that is often used in professional live shows with a right-angled 1/4" male connector at one end and a 1/4" female locking connector at the other in order to prevent accidental disconnects: https://www.redco.com/Custom-Cable.html?cableid=2QQN8
By Linius Go To PostThese Klipsch speakers look insane by the way. No idea yet where my speaker journey will take me. But it’s gonna be a little more subtle haha. Would love to hear them, since I mainly know the boomy bass heavy home cinema Klipsch speakers.Yes, talk about excessive. It can be a real rats nest out there. You’re probably better off spending your kudos on a room (treatment) which will vastly improve your listening experience ;)
Absolutely, it's certainly something I'm keeping in mind when I go house hunting in a couple of years. If the livingroom is not suitable at all for a good place for my audio the house defintely needs some other strong pros to be considered. Luckily furniture, carpets and room correction software go a long way into fixing things.
The ground pin on the plug for my JDS Atom fucking broke. Costs near £20 for a replacement. Absolutely fewmin'
By HonestVapes Go To PostThe ground pin on the plug for my JDS Atom fucking broke. Costs near £20 for a replacement. Absolutely fewmin'How did you manage that? :o
e: the breaking, not the replacement
Haha, I’m curious as well. Can only imagine something like that happening when you’re moving it elsewhere and actually drop it while doing so.
By Kibner Go To PostHow did you manage that? :o
e: the breaking, not the replacement
I’m assuming it happened when the vertical extension it was plugged into got knocked over. It’s a pretty hefty power adapter, and the ground pin is plastic moulded into the housing of the plug so not especially strong. The knock seemed to just sheer it right off.
Also it’s not really relevant as a ground pin given it’s plastic but that’s shockingly common with a lot of things lately. Really undermines the genuinely well engineered British plug.
By Kibner Go To PostThis guy seems to analyze the sound signatures of a bunch of IEMs. The prices don't seem to really be kept up to date, but might still be a useful resource: https://crinacle.com/rankings/iems/
i love the descriptions of the 4 worst rated ones
^ lmao
I really appreciate this one:
And then the frequency response graph for it...
Absolutely incredible.
I really appreciate this one:
It literally sounds out of phase. It's an accomplishment in itself.
And then the frequency response graph for it...
Absolutely incredible.
Don’t know if anyone here uses tidal but they’ve finally introduced connect the same way Spotify does it. Immediate support on brands like Bluesound, NAD, KEF, DALI and more. Works perfect over here.
By Linius Go To PostDon’t know if anyone here uses tidal but they’ve finally introduced connect the same way Spotify does it. Immediate support on brands like Bluesound, NAD, KEF, DALI and more. Works perfect over here.I think I may be the only person who does. lol That's good to know, though. Thanks!
Tidal also integrates well with Plex and you even get a discount if you are a Plex Pass subscriber (or have lifetime membership).
Cool, I found out a way to get Dirac to run on a Windows PC without the need for additional hardware. Not sure why they hide how to get this documentation (I had to google for it, tbh), but here are their instructions: https://live.dirac.com/content/uploads/2020/03/setupvsthostwithdlp.pdf
Essentially, you need to download and install four pieces of software:
Of course, to actually use this chain, you need to have a license for Dirac Live for Studio which is currently 350 USD, though it also has a 14-day trial. This is still cheaper than the cheapest Dirac hardware I have found: the 450 USD MiniDSP DDRC-24. You would still need a DAC and possibly something to control crossover if you have a sub and your existing audio chain doesn't have a way to do so.
e: there is also a Mac version of the Dirac software but I do not know what VST Hosts and Virtual Audio Cable solutions exist for that platform
Essentially, you need to download and install four pieces of software:
- Dirac's site - need to download Dirac Live which is the calibration software and Dirac Live Processor for Windows which has the VST plugin
- VSTHost - lets you use the Dirac VST plugin without needing to run a full-blown DAW
- Virtual Audio Cable - lets you re-direct sound meant for your speakers to VSTHost
Of course, to actually use this chain, you need to have a license for Dirac Live for Studio which is currently 350 USD, though it also has a 14-day trial. This is still cheaper than the cheapest Dirac hardware I have found: the 450 USD MiniDSP DDRC-24. You would still need a DAC and possibly something to control crossover if you have a sub and your existing audio chain doesn't have a way to do so.
e: there is also a Mac version of the Dirac software but I do not know what VST Hosts and Virtual Audio Cable solutions exist for that platform
Bought a Bluesound Node 2i for my pops. Spotify works but I can’t log into my Qobuz account in BluOs 🤨
Hmm that’s odd. We use Qobuz trough Bluesound in the shop. Still love my Node, great little streaming device.
The JDS Labs Atom DAC has apparently been out for half the year now: https://jdslabs.com/product/atom-dac/
It is a $100 stereo DAC whose sound is good enough for practically anyone. A benchmark review: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/jds-labs-atom-dac-review.14002/
The downsides are that it only accepts USB input and doesn't have built-in power or volume control.
e: looks like the main competition for it at this price point is the Topping E30: https://www.amazon.com/Topping-E30-Optical-Coaxial-Portable/dp/B0865Y9F6R
It is a $100 stereo DAC whose sound is good enough for practically anyone. A benchmark review: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/jds-labs-atom-dac-review.14002/
The downsides are that it only accepts USB input and doesn't have built-in power or volume control.
e: looks like the main competition for it at this price point is the Topping E30: https://www.amazon.com/Topping-E30-Optical-Coaxial-Portable/dp/B0865Y9F6R
Some great IEMs for $150: https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-plus-universal-iems
Ages since I've set up surround sound audio on a console. I've got a Sonos Arc (connected to my CX via eArc) plus two surround speakers. On the XSX I've got it set up on bitstream and DTS Digital Surround but honestly I'm not certain whether that's best for this set up.
By Laboured Go To PostAges since I've set up surround sound audio on a console. I've got a Sonos Arc (connected to my CX via eArc) plus two surround speakers. On the XSX I've got it set up on bitstream and DTS Digital Surround but honestly I'm not certain whether that's best for this set up.Assuming your options are Bitstream Dolby, Bitstream DTS, and PCM then Bitstream Dolby is your only real choice.
The Arc won't support DTS ever, and does not yet support LPCM (but will this month)
By JesalR Go To PostAssuming your options are Bitstream Dolby, Bitstream DTS, and PCM then Bitstream Dolby is your only real choice.
The Arc won't support DTS ever, and does not yet support LPCM (but will this month)
No those aren't my options, which concerns me a little.
Basically options are - Stereo (uncompressed); 5.1 (uncompressed); 7.1 (uncompressed); Bitstream out
Then within that it's - DTS Digital Surround; Dolby Digital; Dolby Atmos; DTS:X
I should note that the 5.1 and 7.1 options don't work, and the Atmos and DTS:X options also don't work.
By Laboured Go To PostNo those aren't my options, which concerns me a little.5.1 and 7.1 will be the PCM streams, so those won't be supported for now. I'm surprised Atmos isn't working for you, and that the DTS Digital Surround is.
Basically options are - Stereo (uncompressed); 5.1 (uncompressed); 7.1 (uncompressed); Bitstream out
Then within that it's - DTS Digital Surround; Dolby Digital; Dolby Atmos; DTS:X
I should note that the 5.1 and 7.1 options don't work, and the Atmos and DTS:X options also don't work.
The update that supports PCM dropped today, so if you update your Sonos system, that should at least allow 5.1 and 7.1 uncompressed to work
By JesalR Go To PostThe update that supports PCM dropped today, so if you update your Sonos system, that should at least allow 5.1 and 7.1 uncompressed to work
You beaut, thank you.
By JesalR Go To Post5.1 and 7.1 will be the PCM streams, so those won't be supported for now. I'm surprised Atmos isn't working for you, and that the DTS Digital Surround is.
When I select Atmos, it talks about needing to download an app so it works with headphones - very odd.
I'll try the update and report back.
By Laboured Go To PostYou beaut, thank you.I'm not 100% sure, but it's possible that Atmos as supported as metadata over Bitstream DD, may want to check your Sonos app with something like Netflix?
When I select Atmos, it talks about needing to download an app so it works with headphones - very odd.
Doing update doesn't seem to have changed matters. Very odd. Says 5.1 and 7.1 isn't supported by my "receiver". Bitstream Dolby Digital still gives me surround sound but feel like I should be able to enable better.
You probably already saw but you need to d/l the Atmos app on the console. Confounding.
Microsoft has steadily refined the Xbox user interface over the last few years, and it’s much more usable than it once was, but there are still aspects of it with which we struggle to get along – core console features such as the system settings being treated as an app, for example, and the requirement to download an extra app in order to enable Dolby Atmos.
anyone have any idea what problem this might be? feels like it is getting worse and worse. basically periodically, my left speaker will start sounding like this (i am muting one speaker at a time here, to show the difference). But sometimes just slightly touching the volume knob will fix it in the end on the Edifier S350DB
Same thing happens through optical, aux and so on.
Same thing happens through optical, aux and so on.
Plugging headphones into the 3.5mm jack on the Xbox pad doesn't seem to work (I usually use surround sound system using eArc). No sound comes through the headphones at all and still comes through the speakers instead. Tried two different headsets.
Anyone got any clever ideas?
Anyone got any clever ideas?
If there is nothing wrong in the configuration setting of the Xbox and no problems with your headsets, you may need a ctia-omtp converter for the cable.
JDS Labs customer service pretty good. Sent an email this morning about an issue with my Atom Amp that was revealed with these new Drop Plus Universal IEMs (channel imbalance at low volumes). Told me to just mail them my defective unit and they will replace it with a new one that doesn't have that issue within 1-3 days of receiving it.
Anybody here have experience with the Roland VT-4? Whenever I turn the phantom power on, the damn thing just cuts off. I'll probably buy another XLR cable, and see if that's the cause, because I don't know what else could possibly be causing this. I returned the first one that I had, but clearly it's something on my end.
I like these foam tips that came with my new IEMs, but man, I don't like how they require maintenance and have you throw them away every few weeks. Probably just stick to the silicone tips.
I love the sound of foam tips but they are an annoyance and are tougher to get seated right and fall out easier. It's not worth the hassle.
Yeah I’ve tried foam as well but it didn’t really work for me. But I’ve had customers that love them over time so to each their own.
By Daz Go To PostAny thoughts on JBL studio 2.0 sounbdbar?JBL is typically a worthwhile brand.
That's all I got.
Linius! Would you recommend the Argon subwoofers (Bass8 or 10)?
Not sure if I need them to be honest, but saw they were discounted 20% during BF. Would run together with the Forte A5.
Not sure if I need them to be honest, but saw they were discounted 20% during BF. Would run together with the Forte A5.
By DerZuhälter Go To PostLinius! Would you recommend the Argon subwoofers (Bass8 or 10)?
Not sure if I need them to be honest, but saw they were discounted 20% during BF. Would run together with the Forte A5.
Both would be fine honestly. Depends a bit on the amount of bass you want really.
On the other hands I would say it’s worth saving up a bit more for the Dali E9 or BW608. Much faster subwoofers that sound less boomy. Too bad you don’t live near a store. This is really one of those things you’ll just need to experience firsthand to properly judge. We’re going to expand next year though, so maybe there will come a shop closer to home.
By Kibner Go To PostJBL is typically a worthwhile brand.Checked it out again - it seems to not have a sub woofer.
That's all I got.
that troubles me.
By Daz Go To PostChecked it out again - it seems to not have a sub woofer.2.0 means stereo with no sub. 2.1 means stereo with a sub.
that troubles me.
The first number designates how many "standard" speakers there are. 5.x would be five speakers (so, surround sound). 7.x would be seven.
The second number is how many subwoofers there are. x.1 means one subwoofer while x.2 means two subs.
If there is a third number, that designates how many "height" speakers there are for Atmos or other 3D speaker tech. x.y.4 would mean four speakers, usually embedded in the ceiling.
So, if you want a sub, you need to look for something that is x.1 or x.2 or something of that nature.
By Linius Go To PostBoth would be fine honestly. Depends a bit on the amount of bass you want really.
On the other hands I would say it’s worth saving up a bit more for the Dali E9 or BW608. Much faster subwoofers that sound less boomy. Too bad you don’t live near a store. This is really one of those things you’ll just need to experience firsthand to properly judge. We’re going to expand next year though, so maybe there will come a shop closer to home.
Ok small update. After visiting the store in cologne yesterday I decided against getting it. Was advised that the sub needs quite a bit of space to properly work and I don't really have that at the moment. Furthermore I felt the Mk8 created more surrounding vibration than the more expensive BW one.
Considering I live in appartment with no carpets I fear the neighbors would not be as happy about it.
Well maybe next time if I move into something bigger.
My main gripe with the Argon subs is that they sound a bit aggressive. For the money they're great subs but I like my sub to be much more subtle. If you go up to the more expensive models it gets so good. The DB4S from Bowers & Wilkins is so incredibly smooth. You hardly notice the sub is there but once you pull the plug a layer of sounds just disappears.
And cool to hear you went to the shop!
And cool to hear you went to the shop!