Aigh, well I got in most of the hardware (DSP, amp, mic) late last week. Today I got the usb hub I needed in order to have the mic and the DSP plugged into my laptop at the same time. Evenings are the worst time to calibrate because of the incessant noise of all the bugs outside so I wasn't able to do much other than take a sample to make sure the subwoofer and mains are "close enough" in balance for calibration to do any good.
Turns out, they aren't. There is a big drop between 100 and 120 hz. Everything else is relatively flat. I will fuck around with that another day. Probably just have to change the curve of the crossover, which is set at 80 hz and 24 dB LR on the high and low pass filters.
----
Following is a brief explanation of what it means to change the curve of the crossover, for those who don't know. First, a crossover is when your mains and subs take over from one another. Think of it like a handoff in a relay race. You set this handoff/crossover at a certain frequency level; 80 hz is the most recommended for reasons I can explain later for those interested.
The problem is that you don't want the crossover to happen instantly at that frequency since it sounds funky to the human ear. Instead, you have a gradual roll-off. This roll-off can be described as a curve. The steeper the curve, the more dramatic the roll-off and vice-versa for a shallower curve.
At least, I think that is how it works as of this evening. I will probably be reading this article over the next few days to be sure I know what I'm doing and cut down on the amount of time I spend experimenting fruitlessly.
Turns out, they aren't. There is a big drop between 100 and 120 hz. Everything else is relatively flat. I will fuck around with that another day. Probably just have to change the curve of the crossover, which is set at 80 hz and 24 dB LR on the high and low pass filters.
----
Following is a brief explanation of what it means to change the curve of the crossover, for those who don't know. First, a crossover is when your mains and subs take over from one another. Think of it like a handoff in a relay race. You set this handoff/crossover at a certain frequency level; 80 hz is the most recommended for reasons I can explain later for those interested.
The problem is that you don't want the crossover to happen instantly at that frequency since it sounds funky to the human ear. Instead, you have a gradual roll-off. This roll-off can be described as a curve. The steeper the curve, the more dramatic the roll-off and vice-versa for a shallower curve.
At least, I think that is how it works as of this evening. I will probably be reading this article over the next few days to be sure I know what I'm doing and cut down on the amount of time I spend experimenting fruitlessly.
First impressions of all my new home theater gear: the Emotiva Basx A-100 amp and the miniDSP DDRC-24 DAC+DSP.
Finished work early so I spent time finishing up my setup since bugs and other wildlife weren't out in force, yet. First off, end results are better than what I got from the the Audyssey Bronze software I was using before in my Denon AVR. Specifically, this Dirac software did a much better job at keeping bass strong and balanced while reducing the localization effects even more. Regardless of the software used, I can highly recommend the use of room correction software if you are using a separate subwoofer. It makes a huge difference integrating them into your audio system. Not sure there is a similar improvement when using surround speakers since I don't have any.
Only big annoyance so far with the DDRC-24 is that changing the volume on my tv does not actually change the volume of the unit. I'm guessing that is because that signal doesn't travel over the optical input I'm using. Thankfully, the unit does have an IR port that you can use your existing remotes to train it with (think universal remotes). In the meantime, I'm going to use the little remote I got just for it.
The Emotiva amp doesn't make a big quality difference but I expected that going in. The biggest thing is that my mains don't sound as strained or as on the verge of blowing out at higher volumes. The power it provides should never be enough to damage my speakers, but I'm running it at ~85-90% of max volume from there and then controlling overall system volume with the DDRC-24. Movies, video games, and music are all mixed at different volumes and I have to raise or lower the volume significantly depending on which media I'm using.
Complaint about the amp is that the auto-detect audio signal system isn't as sensitive as I would like. If you have just really soft background stuff playing for several minutes with no spikes and at a low volume, it will turn off since it doesn't think the audio signal is strong enough to be worth playing. Annoying if you ever want things softly playing in the background for an extended time. Thankfully, there is a switch on the back that lets you change from auto-detect to always on for that situation. It also supports triggers, but the DDRC-24 doesn't have any so that is useless for my setup.
I think I can improve my sound even more by switching the space my sub and right main take up. This would move the sub woofer closer to the tv so that the sound doesn't come from as far away. It would also make my mains closer in distance from each other as my couch is from them which would improve my sound even more. I'll do that another day as it will likely involve me cutting another length of speaker wire stripping it, wiring it up, and then running through the calibration process again and I don't feel like dealing with that hassle, atm.
Long term, I'll probably put up some acoustic panels to cut down on the echo-inducing reflections. Will have to be decorative since this is my combined living room, dining room, and kitchen space.
----
Review of the actual setup procedure now.
Getting everything hooked up was super easy. Plugs are secure and binding posts worked great on the amp.
Initial setup of the DDRC-24 was kind of complicated. You need to have a computer connected to it in order to configure it. The UI isn't the best but works well enough. The instruction manual thankfully shows you step by step how to get it setup for the most common systems it is used with. They were not difficult to follow, though some of the pictures could have shown more of the overall UI to help locate where certain elements are.
Still, if you are not experienced with in-depth tuning of audio systems, you may not fully understand exactly what it is you are doing and how it affects your setup. I spent lots of time googling this past week and weekend learning the basics, myself.
The Dirac calibration software was a dream to use, with the exceptions of it not playing well on the smaller resolution of my Surface Pro 2 and it liking to freeze up seemingly randomly. I had to make sure to exit all foreground and all unneeded background processes to get it to run stable.
The software itself is a wizard and takes you step-by-step through the process and provides many helpful warnings and hints and other help on a side panel for each step. For it to work properly, you need a calibrated mic. I got one from the same store as the miniDSP and they provided me the calibration file once I gave them the license number of my mic. This is a very important element of the whole thing as it affects how the software interprets the sounds it records.
The other piece of hardware needed is a mic stand. The Dirac software has you place the mic in nine different places in your listening area and using a stand that you can raise and lower is necessary, imo.
The actual calibration process goes like this: select hardware in use (DDRC-24 and my mic, in this case, both connected via USB to my computer), adjust input gain of the mic based on the background noise level, adjust the output gain of the speakers based on that same background noise level, record three sweeps (left speaker, then right, then both) at each of the nine locations the program tells you to place the mic, apply the auto-generated target curve based off the results from the recordings (or make your own target curve and apply that instead), generate the filters, save the filters onto your device. It sounds like a lot, but it is pretty simple throughout.
Before I ran through the whole calibration process, I first tried to get my sub nominally integrated with the system by only using the first recording location in the "sweet spot" and then looking at the response curve the Dirac software gave me. I got it close enough between that and the test tones before going through with the real thing. Through this process, I noticed that my left main has a very sizeable dip in frequency response from 110-140hz and I'm not sure why. The right main doesn't exhibit it at all. I may contact the manufacturer to see if that is something to worry about or not.
One neat thing about the DDRC-24 is that it can hold four base configurations and two Dirac filter configurations (at least, that's what it looked like) at once. You can also easily turn the Dirac filters on/off or switch configurations either in the app itself or with your remote.
Initial setup of the A-100 amp was really easy. When using it as a bookshelf speaker amp, you only have the volume knob and the power switch as options to mess with. I used the test tones the Dirac software produced to find what seemed like a good, safe output level. I basically found where there was a large jump in output volume at the end and put the volume knob just before it would hit that final peak.
Finished work early so I spent time finishing up my setup since bugs and other wildlife weren't out in force, yet. First off, end results are better than what I got from the the Audyssey Bronze software I was using before in my Denon AVR. Specifically, this Dirac software did a much better job at keeping bass strong and balanced while reducing the localization effects even more. Regardless of the software used, I can highly recommend the use of room correction software if you are using a separate subwoofer. It makes a huge difference integrating them into your audio system. Not sure there is a similar improvement when using surround speakers since I don't have any.
Only big annoyance so far with the DDRC-24 is that changing the volume on my tv does not actually change the volume of the unit. I'm guessing that is because that signal doesn't travel over the optical input I'm using. Thankfully, the unit does have an IR port that you can use your existing remotes to train it with (think universal remotes). In the meantime, I'm going to use the little remote I got just for it.
The Emotiva amp doesn't make a big quality difference but I expected that going in. The biggest thing is that my mains don't sound as strained or as on the verge of blowing out at higher volumes. The power it provides should never be enough to damage my speakers, but I'm running it at ~85-90% of max volume from there and then controlling overall system volume with the DDRC-24. Movies, video games, and music are all mixed at different volumes and I have to raise or lower the volume significantly depending on which media I'm using.
Complaint about the amp is that the auto-detect audio signal system isn't as sensitive as I would like. If you have just really soft background stuff playing for several minutes with no spikes and at a low volume, it will turn off since it doesn't think the audio signal is strong enough to be worth playing. Annoying if you ever want things softly playing in the background for an extended time. Thankfully, there is a switch on the back that lets you change from auto-detect to always on for that situation. It also supports triggers, but the DDRC-24 doesn't have any so that is useless for my setup.
I think I can improve my sound even more by switching the space my sub and right main take up. This would move the sub woofer closer to the tv so that the sound doesn't come from as far away. It would also make my mains closer in distance from each other as my couch is from them which would improve my sound even more. I'll do that another day as it will likely involve me cutting another length of speaker wire stripping it, wiring it up, and then running through the calibration process again and I don't feel like dealing with that hassle, atm.
Long term, I'll probably put up some acoustic panels to cut down on the echo-inducing reflections. Will have to be decorative since this is my combined living room, dining room, and kitchen space.
----
Review of the actual setup procedure now.
Getting everything hooked up was super easy. Plugs are secure and binding posts worked great on the amp.
Initial setup of the DDRC-24 was kind of complicated. You need to have a computer connected to it in order to configure it. The UI isn't the best but works well enough. The instruction manual thankfully shows you step by step how to get it setup for the most common systems it is used with. They were not difficult to follow, though some of the pictures could have shown more of the overall UI to help locate where certain elements are.
Still, if you are not experienced with in-depth tuning of audio systems, you may not fully understand exactly what it is you are doing and how it affects your setup. I spent lots of time googling this past week and weekend learning the basics, myself.
The Dirac calibration software was a dream to use, with the exceptions of it not playing well on the smaller resolution of my Surface Pro 2 and it liking to freeze up seemingly randomly. I had to make sure to exit all foreground and all unneeded background processes to get it to run stable.
The software itself is a wizard and takes you step-by-step through the process and provides many helpful warnings and hints and other help on a side panel for each step. For it to work properly, you need a calibrated mic. I got one from the same store as the miniDSP and they provided me the calibration file once I gave them the license number of my mic. This is a very important element of the whole thing as it affects how the software interprets the sounds it records.
The other piece of hardware needed is a mic stand. The Dirac software has you place the mic in nine different places in your listening area and using a stand that you can raise and lower is necessary, imo.
The actual calibration process goes like this: select hardware in use (DDRC-24 and my mic, in this case, both connected via USB to my computer), adjust input gain of the mic based on the background noise level, adjust the output gain of the speakers based on that same background noise level, record three sweeps (left speaker, then right, then both) at each of the nine locations the program tells you to place the mic, apply the auto-generated target curve based off the results from the recordings (or make your own target curve and apply that instead), generate the filters, save the filters onto your device. It sounds like a lot, but it is pretty simple throughout.
Before I ran through the whole calibration process, I first tried to get my sub nominally integrated with the system by only using the first recording location in the "sweet spot" and then looking at the response curve the Dirac software gave me. I got it close enough between that and the test tones before going through with the real thing. Through this process, I noticed that my left main has a very sizeable dip in frequency response from 110-140hz and I'm not sure why. The right main doesn't exhibit it at all. I may contact the manufacturer to see if that is something to worry about or not.
One neat thing about the DDRC-24 is that it can hold four base configurations and two Dirac filter configurations (at least, that's what it looked like) at once. You can also easily turn the Dirac filters on/off or switch configurations either in the app itself or with your remote.
Initial setup of the A-100 amp was really easy. When using it as a bookshelf speaker amp, you only have the volume knob and the power switch as options to mess with. I used the test tones the Dirac software produced to find what seemed like a good, safe output level. I basically found where there was a large jump in output volume at the end and put the volume knob just before it would hit that final peak.
Paging Smokey https://www.theverge.com/circuitbreaker/2017/9/7/16270618/sony-4k-projector-for-5000-cheapest-model-yet
Even the cheapest 4K projectors are still way more expensive than most top-of-the-line 4K TVs, but that’s slowly starting to change. Sony introduced a series of new 4K projectors today, and one of them — the VPL-VW285ES 4K HDR Home Theater Projector — sells for $5,000. That’s still really expensive, but it’s dramatically less expensive than most of the other 4K projectors available from Sony, which largely cost more than $10,000.
The projector offers a maximum picture size of 200 inches and real 4K output — as opposed to the slightly lesser Ultra HD — with a resolution of 4096 x 2160. For HDR, it supports the popular HDR10 standard and HLG (Hybrid Log-Gamma), though the projector only has 1,500 lumens of brightness. That’s enough to deliver “some really good looking color,” according to Art Feierman at Projector Reviews. But Feierman added that HDR images looked darker, so projectors would be better off with at least 2,500 lumens of brightness.
Please leave Smokey alone. He's about that mainstream now. He's currently deciding between two TVs without HDR10+ support.
By Zabojnik Go To PostPlease leave Smokey alone. He's about that mainstream now. He's currently deciding between two TVs without HDR10+ support.
👀
ay yo reilo
[
65'' OLED B6. Open box @ Best Buy for $1,500. For comparison a B7 65'' is $3,000. Copped it along with new LG UHD player and the 3 movies in the pic.
Altogether everything came out to about $1,700. I mean...I consider that pretty damn good. 2017 panels are a bit brighter and overall improvement, but the price difference I couldn't ignore. Had no intention of getting OLED today tbh. Planned to get the Sony X900 55'' for about $1,200, but then I saw this.
Downside is the remote that came with it is incompatible. Further research shows that LG engages in remote fukkery. I even went back to the store to get a LG Universal remote and nope, doesn't work. So I have to order one from them sometime tomorrow, and wait for it to come in before I can even use the damn TV. Right now it's in store mode loop because I can't get out of it, but I was able to get to the PS4 and configure it to the network before the HDMI signal switches back to the demo.
[
65'' OLED B6. Open box @ Best Buy for $1,500. For comparison a B7 65'' is $3,000. Copped it along with new LG UHD player and the 3 movies in the pic.
Altogether everything came out to about $1,700. I mean...I consider that pretty damn good. 2017 panels are a bit brighter and overall improvement, but the price difference I couldn't ignore. Had no intention of getting OLED today tbh. Planned to get the Sony X900 55'' for about $1,200, but then I saw this.
Downside is the remote that came with it is incompatible. Further research shows that LG engages in remote fukkery. I even went back to the store to get a LG Universal remote and nope, doesn't work. So I have to order one from them sometime tomorrow, and wait for it to come in before I can even use the damn TV. Right now it's in store mode loop because I can't get out of it, but I was able to get to the PS4 and configure it to the network before the HDMI signal switches back to the demo.
By diehard Go To PostIs there a reason to buy a standalone UHD player when the xbone S is out there?You can buy a Xbone for less than 200$ these days ?
Damn, it's still 300 € here.
By diehard Go To PostIs there a reason to buy a standalone UHD player when the xbone S is out there?
I did research on this and decided to go with a standalone for a few reasons. The Xbox UHD player is pretty bare bones. It also suffers from black crush as a result of Microsoft refusing to fix the RGB settings on the console. Standalone players give you better picture, audio quality, and features. For example this LG I got is the only player on the market besides the Oppo (that's $500+) that offers Dolby Vision. The OLEDs have DV and HDR10 and having a player that could read DV from a UHD disc to match the format on the TV is a plus.
The first 4K Ultra HD Blu-ray player available from LG, the big feature being touted here is the Blu-ray player’s support for Dolby Vision, Dolby’s proprietary HDR format, which is also present on many of LG’s 4K TVs. Dolby Vision differs from other HDR formats in some subtle but important ways, primarily in the way it transfers color information, and support for higher levels of color and brightness. (You can learn more about the benefits of Dolby Vision by checking out our HDR guide.)
While the inclusion of Dolby Vision is exciting, the UP970 will also support the open source HDR format, HDR10, so it can play just about every HDR-supported Blu-ray out there.
Rounding out the specs are two HDMI ports, including an HDMI 2.0a port for Ultra HD video and HDMI 1.4 for connecting to legacy hi-fi devices and soundbars. Finally, Ethernet and Wi-Fi connectivity and support for streaming apps like Netflix and YouTube is included, allowing yet another way to access 4K HDR content. There is also a USB port for connecting external storage devices to play movies, music, or browse pictures.
Not only will Blu-rays look their best on the UP970, they should also sound great thanks to support for Dolby Atmos, Dolby TrueHD, and DTS-HD Master audio formats.
Reading up on LG fucking up the B6 with their latest firmware update. Goddamnit. It apparently *raises* the black level of the TV and the perfect blacks are gone. On top of that there was a previous update that fixed the input lag / HDR dimness in gaming, but I guess this was somehow all messed up in the latest update, and with the B6 being the 2016 model, fuck man. Software was one reason I was hesitant to go with LG, tbh. I don't know what firmware my TV set at because of LG BS remote situation that changes every year. I have 2 magic remotes in front of me and a LG universal remote in front of me and none of them work. jfc.
You really only notice the difference between OLED and LCD if they're next to each other. That's what happened yesterday. I asked if they had footage that could be shared across OLED and LCD. Sony happens to have both tech and so they showed same footage across their OLED line and the Sony X900 which is what I was actually looking at yesterday. With both in front playing footage it was obvious, and it wasn't close which one was better. But if you never see what OLED looks like .
And they're definitely more expensive.
And they're definitely more expensive.
Like I said a earlier in the summer when the Sony A1E dropped, their sushi demo at Best Buy was far beyond what was playing on any of the other sets in the room. It really makes you not even want to consider an edge lit LED. Still $4k, but that A1E is down $1,500 already.
Congrats on the purchase Smokey. At that price it's a pretty easy decision and will tide you over for a bit until the next round of sets begin to standardize some of the tech.
Congrats on the purchase Smokey. At that price it's a pretty easy decision and will tide you over for a bit until the next round of sets begin to standardize some of the tech.
If you are considering edge-lit as something good enough in comparison to full-array: don't. It has too many inconsistencies and the picture, imo, is better with it turned off and letting your eyes adjust to not-quite-black blacks.
Sony's X900 series and above are all local dimming or a hybrid variant. Samsung has zero local dimming models this year which is really a shame.
Ordered this goddamn remote with overnight shipping jfc.
Should be here on Tuesday. Luckily going to be occupied this weekend otherwise I'd be driving myself crazy.
Should be here on Tuesday. Luckily going to be occupied this weekend otherwise I'd be driving myself crazy.
By Smokey Go To PostYou really only notice the difference between OLED and LCD if they're next to each other. That's what happened yesterday. I asked if they had footage that could be shared across OLED and LCD. Sony happens to have both tech and so they showed same footage across their OLED line and the Sony X900 which is what I was actually looking at yesterday. With both in front playing footage it was obvious, and it wasn't close which one was better. But if you never see what OLED looks like .
And they're definitely more expensive.
I've seen OLED though. The blacks were the blackest I've ever seen. Now I'm like ... waiting for one of my TV's to crap out on me so I can go shop.
For sure. My primarily concern is the firmware fukkery that LG has committed that lightens the black levels. Like ....why would you sabotage one of the primary selling points of your reference displays? I'm hoping my TV is still on the default firmware.
Can't you get ahold of whatever their techs use and boot the firmware you want on it, and then disable automatic updates?
Sounds like you get prompted for the update, it doesn't auto install. Could block the address that sends the update at a router level, maybe. Or I could just not hook it up online.
By Smokey Go To PostSounds like you get prompted for the update, it doesn't auto install. Could block the address that sends the update at a router level, maybe. Or I could just not hook it up online.
A couple links. Looks like you can install the original firmware regardless. Unless they don't let you go backwards in firmware version?
http://www.lg.com/us/support/product-help/CT10000018-1430510575535-updating-firmware
http://www.lg.com/us/support-product/lg-OLED65B6P
I was able to get into my TV using the physical knob behind the LG logo. Go the TV on my network, downloaded the LG remote app on my phone, and I am now able to use my phone as a remote .
First thing I did was to check the firmware on my TV:
[04.30.77]
1. Apply the HDR Game mode.
[04.31.10]
1. Add the HDR Game mode to improve the input lag
2. Improve the video tearing issue in HDR 4K input and Game mode setting
[04.31.15]
1. Improve the Judder issue in 60hz motion.
[04.31.20]
1. Improve the TV reboot issue while playing MLB CP contents.
[05.30.03]
1. Added notification pop up for when app is no longer supported
2. Change in background image of no signal screen
3. Change in Amazon HDR mode
I'm at 04.31.20 The firmware that's shit is 05.30.03.
Used this video as a baseline for settings
Tried 2k18 first since it was in the console. Everything was crisp and the colors were exceptional. Changing to Game Mode didn't cause any dip in brightness from what I can tell. Input lag was negligible. I was getting plenty of green timings (perfect) on my shots, and even a few early releases due to me naturally trying to compensate for input lag from my other tv.
In HDR mode, brightness and contrast are set to 100 by default, and was plenty bright to me. I know the 2017 are about 20% brighter, but this was perfectly fine for me. Will try Horizon tomorrow.
Hooked up the LG UHD player and put in Planet Earth II
whewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww
Never seen nothing like it brehs. The IQ combined with HDR is some next level stuff. I wish I would've saved a first watch for this version but even then, it looked incredible.
OLED is the truth. Been beating that drum for awhile, but real talk, if you're trying to get a high end set and not a stop gap tv, these are the way to go. When the screen goes black during a transition scene and you can't tell where the fuking screen is in the room or if it's even on ;_;
First thing I did was to check the firmware on my TV:
[04.30.77]
1. Apply the HDR Game mode.
[04.31.10]
1. Add the HDR Game mode to improve the input lag
2. Improve the video tearing issue in HDR 4K input and Game mode setting
[04.31.15]
1. Improve the Judder issue in 60hz motion.
[04.31.20]
1. Improve the TV reboot issue while playing MLB CP contents.
[05.30.03]
1. Added notification pop up for when app is no longer supported
2. Change in background image of no signal screen
3. Change in Amazon HDR mode
I'm at 04.31.20 The firmware that's shit is 05.30.03.
Used this video as a baseline for settings
Tried 2k18 first since it was in the console. Everything was crisp and the colors were exceptional. Changing to Game Mode didn't cause any dip in brightness from what I can tell. Input lag was negligible. I was getting plenty of green timings (perfect) on my shots, and even a few early releases due to me naturally trying to compensate for input lag from my other tv.
In HDR mode, brightness and contrast are set to 100 by default, and was plenty bright to me. I know the 2017 are about 20% brighter, but this was perfectly fine for me. Will try Horizon tomorrow.
Hooked up the LG UHD player and put in Planet Earth II
whewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww
Never seen nothing like it brehs. The IQ combined with HDR is some next level stuff. I wish I would've saved a first watch for this version but even then, it looked incredible.
OLED is the truth. Been beating that drum for awhile, but real talk, if you're trying to get a high end set and not a stop gap tv, these are the way to go. When the screen goes black during a transition scene and you can't tell where the fuking screen is in the room or if it's even on ;_;
To add on from yesterday, I'm going to use this TV as normal and keep an eye on certain things. I have 15 days to return it. My wife seems more bothered by it being open box then I am, despite me telling her everything checks out with no glaring issues. The picture etc is already exceptional, and I know I'm not going to find a better price than $1,500 for a 65" OLED. Need to decide if I'm cool with rolling with this as my primary tv going forward or return and pay most likely minimum of double for 2018 models :l
By Smokey Go To PostTo add on from yesterday, I'm going to use this TV as normal and keep an eye on certain things. I have 15 days to return it. My wife seems more bothered by it being open box then I am, despite me telling her everything checks out with no glaring issues. The picture etc is already exceptional, and I know I'm not going to find a better price than $1,500 for a 65" OLED. Need to decide if I'm cool with rolling with this as my primary tv going forward or return and pay most likely minimum of double for 2018 models :lBe sure to check the physical casing. Make sure everything is closed together, all ports work, etc.
Also, be sure to plug the thing into a quality power strip.
By Kibner Go To PostBe sure to check the physical casing. Make sure everything is closed together, all ports work, etc.
Also, be sure to plug the thing into a quality power strip.
Yup, everything's good there. There's some scratches on the base, but that's it. I've got 3/4 of the HDMI ports in use. 2 of which have Ultra Deep Color enabled (HDR). No issues there . I would like to get it mounted though. Also wondering if I need to upgrade my router. My main one appears to have suffered a surge during Harvey, so I'm on a backup Netgear from a few years ago. I plan to upgrade to the 4k Netflix package as well as some of the other 4k streaming options, and I don't know how well this router will handle it.
You can get those scratches cleared up using some anti-scratch remover. I’ve used some before on a project and it cleaned it right up.
For router: my roommate and I bought an Eero (router plus two beacons) and it cleared up any internet issues we had. SF is notoriously bad for shit WiFi at any place we lived and we don’t have any more issues. You’ll pay a penny but a mesh router is worth the investment.
For router: my roommate and I bought an Eero (router plus two beacons) and it cleared up any internet issues we had. SF is notoriously bad for shit WiFi at any place we lived and we don’t have any more issues. You’ll pay a penny but a mesh router is worth the investment.
A problem with the Eero, though, is that it doesn't have many ethernet ports. Not an issue for most people but maybe one for Smokey. He would have to get an additional router/bridge/whatever (or use his current back-up one) to get additional ports.
Smokey, Netflix 4k probably doesn't need as much bandwidth as you think: https://help.netflix.com/en/node/306
e: good, cheap surge protector that should more than handle your entertainment center's power requirements: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-12-Outlet-Surge-Protector-8-foot/dp/B01MY7VEFC/
Smokey, Netflix 4k probably doesn't need as much bandwidth as you think: https://help.netflix.com/en/node/306
- 0.5 Megabits per second - Required broadband connection speed
- 1.5 Megabits per second - Recommended broadband connection speed
- 3.0 Megabits per second - Recommended for SD quality
- 5.0 Megabits per second - Recommended for HD quality
- 25 Megabits per second - Recommended for Ultra HD quality
e: good, cheap surge protector that should more than handle your entertainment center's power requirements: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-12-Outlet-Surge-Protector-8-foot/dp/B01MY7VEFC/
By Kibner Go To PostIs that all? That's pretty good!
- 25 Megabits per second - Recommended for Ultra HD quality
Small question for ya'll, been looking into setting up a little gamestation for my gf here.
She's mainly into racing games so I'm thinking a 40 inch 4K monitor because it has way less input lag.
If I look at prices, the 4K 40inch tv is 40€ cheaper but has 24ms while the monitor has 3ms.
No bigger than 40inch needed but 32 might be a little to small.
Any thoughts ?
She's mainly into racing games so I'm thinking a 40 inch 4K monitor because it has way less input lag.
If I look at prices, the 4K 40inch tv is 40€ cheaper but has 24ms while the monitor has 3ms.
No bigger than 40inch needed but 32 might be a little to small.
Any thoughts ?
By reilo Go To PostYou can get those scratches cleared up using some anti-scratch remover. I’ve used some before on a project and it cleaned it right up.
For router: my roommate and I bought an Eero (router plus two beacons) and it cleared up any internet issues we had. SF is notoriously bad for shit WiFi at any place we lived and we don’t have any more issues. You’ll pay a penny but a mesh router is worth the investment.
Didn't even think of anti scratch remover, good look. Remember which one you used?
By GQman2121 Go To PostIs that all? That's pretty good!
Yeah i thought it was more than that tbh. But if you combine that with other things that take up bandwidth at the same time, it dries up really quick. Appreciate the suggestions, thanks kibner.
Left Best Buy with some more UHD movies and Pro enabled games. Down the rabbit hole I go.
I dunno what's going to touch Planet Earth II tho tbh. It's on a whole nother tier.
By Lupercal Go To PostSmall question for ya'll, been looking into setting up a little gamestation for my gf here.
She's mainly into racing games so I'm thinking a 40 inch 4K monitor because it has way less input lag.
If I look at prices, the 4K 40inch tv is 40€ cheaper but has 24ms while the monitor has 3ms.
No bigger than 40inch needed but 32 might be a little to small.
Any thoughts ?
I think you need to give us model names and numbers to look at.
Also, is this for PC games, console, or both?
While you are here, Smokey, the Eero mesh network system is great. It is easy to setup, the beacons double as night lights, and it is better-than-average in both bandwidth and latency. The caveats to gaming on a wireless network still apply (and can get worse if you can't reach the base point directly) but wired performance is same as any router.
It also offers a subscription service called Eero Plus that uses a database of threats that is updated up-to-the-second against malware, spyware, phishing, and botnets. $10 a month or $100 a year.
They also send you a weekly email detailing what it did. Here is an unformatted example of what it sent last week for my mom's network.
You can also create profiles for your family members and tie devices to a particular profile. Profiles can be used to restrict content and availability. Useful when you have a kid and want to make sure all the devices they use won't get internet after bedtime or during dinner.
It also offers a subscription service called Eero Plus that uses a database of threats that is updated up-to-the-second against malware, spyware, phishing, and botnets. $10 a month or $100 a year.
They also send you a weekly email detailing what it did. Here is an unformatted example of what it sent last week for my mom's network.
24,973 Inspections
When you visit a site, requests are made to load the page, ads, images or other files. Here's a breakdown of the types of requests you made over the last week.
TOP CATEGORIES
11,040 web search
4,229 internet services
130 social networking
5,275 professional services
183 streaming video
eero Plus will only let you load a site if it passes inspection. Your devices will be blocked from loading any site that contains harmful content.
--------
32 Threats blocked
eero Plus monitors your outbound network traffic. These were the requests that were flagged as malicious. Rest assured, they were blocked.
1 Malware blocks: Software that can harm your network and connected devices.
31 Spyware blocks: Commonly found in suspicious ads, spyware can be used to track your online behavior, or in more serious cases, all network activity.
0 Phishing blocks: When an attacker poses as a trustworthy website to get you to provide your personal information.
0 Botnet blocks: When you or a device inadvertently attempts to access a website that has been associated with a botnet.
--------
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You can also create profiles for your family members and tie devices to a particular profile. Profiles can be used to restrict content and availability. Useful when you have a kid and want to make sure all the devices they use won't get internet after bedtime or during dinner.
By Kibner Go To PostI think you need to give us model names and numbers to look at.She's thinking about buying an Xbox X for Forza and then my pc (can't do 4k but I do have a 1070 so 1440p should be easily doable)
Also, is this for PC games, console, or both?
Was thinking either a SAMSUNG UE49MU6200, decent 4K model and curved. Was very surpised about the quality about my big 4K Samsung so I'm gravitating towards this as a TV.
Or a IIYAMA PROLITE X4071UHSU-B1, always use iiyama monitors for my pc aswell, great response time, good colors etc..
Sure it doesn't do 144hz and stuff but the XBOX X won't push above 60 fps anyway and my pc will be about the same at higher resolutions.
About 600€ budget for the tv/monitor.
Smokey's on PS4 Pro right now iirc so he won't have any issues with wi-fi, either. But I got my PS4 plugged in via ethernet into the Eero and no complaints.
I even get a wi-fi signal in the garage which is a good two floors and an entire apartment in-between where the router is lol.
I even get a wi-fi signal in the garage which is a good two floors and an entire apartment in-between where the router is lol.
It's just that WiFi anything adds 10-30 ms to your ping. And the lack of ethernet ports could be a real obstacle if he currently has a lot of things plugged into his current router for that exact reason.
e: i connect wirelessly for my PC and don't mind the minimal extra network latency when gaming but maybe Smokey does
e: i connect wirelessly for my PC and don't mind the minimal extra network latency when gaming but maybe Smokey does
I have to go wireless now. My gaming setup has now moved to the living room and with a 1.5 year old I can't be bothered running a wire for the sake of a few ms of better latency vs his safety. And yeah, I'm on PS4P which thankfully has the better wifi chip.
I will check on th Eero, thanks. And how is this different than a standard router with WiFi bridges?
I will check on th Eero, thanks. And how is this different than a standard router with WiFi bridges?
It's a mesh router, so all of the nodes work together to provide constant wi-fi access, whereas a bridge setup will (iirc) just extend your current signal, so you'll have to make a hop to the router.
Man, 65" sounds good
43" is pretty much the upper limit for suitability as a monitor though in my experience. Even an inch more and I'd probably have to move my neck to see the edges of the screen
Sometimes I see display units in shops and wonder if they've been set up properly, often the resolution on even ultra-modern TVs looks like 720p, with very poor colours. Frankly looks bad a lot of the time, even from a fair distance.
Wondering if my TV's wifi reciever was interfering with the PS4, the PS4's connection has been much more stable since I moved it a couple of feet away from the TV
43" is pretty much the upper limit for suitability as a monitor though in my experience. Even an inch more and I'd probably have to move my neck to see the edges of the screen
Sometimes I see display units in shops and wonder if they've been set up properly, often the resolution on even ultra-modern TVs looks like 720p, with very poor colours. Frankly looks bad a lot of the time, even from a fair distance.
Wondering if my TV's wifi reciever was interfering with the PS4, the PS4's connection has been much more stable since I moved it a couple of feet away from the TV
By reilo Go To PostIt's a mesh router, so all of the nodes work together to provide constant wi-fi access, whereas a bridge setup will (iirc) just extend your current signal, so you'll have to make a hop to the router.
Is there a limit to amount of devices before performance suffers? Myself alone I have the PS4, Firestick, TV, UHD player, phone, my computer.
By Hitch Go To PostMan, 65" sounds good
43" is pretty much the upper limit for suitability as a monitor though in my experience. Even an inch more and I'd probably have to move my neck to see the edges of the screen
It is large. Even coming from a 55". It's probably gonna take a second for me to adjust, but when gaming, it was very in your face. The combination of 4k, HDR, and the screen size was dope, if not overwhelming lol. Even more so with the god tier planet Earth II UHD disc.
Gonna do a little more tinkering and then shut it down on reading about the TV. I don't want to start looking for stuff just because others are having issues, when they're issue may not have been a problem for me, if I didn't read about it.
By Smokey Go To PostIs there a limit to amount of devices before performance suffers? Myself alone I have the PS4, Firestick, TV, UHD player, phone, my computer.
Kinda depends on how much each device uses tbh.
If you have say 300 mbs wifi and each device is being used, most routers try to evenly distribute speeds (in some routers you can prioritise though)
Or get some powerlines?
By Smokey Go To PostIs there a limit to amount of devices before performance suffers? Myself alone I have the PS4, Firestick, TV, UHD player, phone, my computer.When testing it at my mom's, I had two chrome casts, two phones, and two laptops on it streaming shit and it was still going strong. Of course, my mom has 100mb down for some reason.
By Smokey Go To PostIs there a limit to amount of devices before performance suffers? Myself alone I have the PS4, Firestick, TV, UHD player, phone, my computer. .Not that I have noticed. My roommate and I have like five laptops, two PS4s (both running Destiny at the same time and she loves to stream some random ass show in the background), two Chromecasts, two Google Homes, two phones and two TVs potentially all doing shit at once at any given moment and the network quality has been incredible.
Before with an extender and a $120 5Ghz router? Neither of us could get a working signal to our rooms no matter how many Native American prayer dancers to the wi-fi gods we did.
Also, here is a review of a bunch of different mesh devices I used before deciding on the Eero for my mom: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-wi-fi-mesh-networking-kits/
e: it doesn't have a review of the current revision of the Eero hardware, but, needless to say, it's better than the version they tested
e: it doesn't have a review of the current revision of the Eero hardware, but, needless to say, it's better than the version they tested
By reilo Go To PostNot that I have noticed. My roommate and I have like five laptops, two PS4s (both running Destiny at the same time and she loves to stream some random ass show in the background), two Chromecasts, two Google Homes, two phones and two TVs potentially all doing shit at once at any given moment and the network quality has been incredible.
Before with an extender and a $120 5Ghz router? Neither of us could get a working signal to our rooms no matter how many Native American prayer dancers to the wi-fi gods we did.
Sounds great. Will definitely look into it this evening. Also , any thoughts on the Apple TV 4K? 4K movies at same price of the standard HD films is great. Support for Dolby Vision and HDR too.