every article i read on vizio m settings for gamings seems ot say to put sharpness at 0 or very low but Mario Kart looks much worse for me if I put it lower than like 25
By data Go To Postevery article i read on vizio m settings for gamings seems ot say to put sharpness at 0 or very low but Mario Kart looks much worse for me if I put it lower than like 25
What resolution does Mario Kart run at?
http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/vizio/m-series-2016/settings
For 'Sharpness', leave it at 0 for 1080p and 4k sources to prevent any over sharpening. For lower-quality content, like DVDs or SD channels, you might want to increase it a little bit.
By Kibner Go To PostWhat resolution does Mario Kart run at?its 1080 something about lower sharpness makes the fur on marios tanooki suit head look more jaggy despite thinking it would be the opposite.
http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/vizio/m-series-2016/settings
so if i have HDR turned on on my HDMI-1 input(which is the only one it works with) my PS4 Pro the screen will randomly go black and turn to static with the game still running. I've tried changing HDMI cords.
By data Go To Postso if i have HDR turned on on my HDMI-1 input(which is the only one it works with) my PS4 Pro the screen will randomly go black and turn to static with the game still running. I've tried changing HDMI cords.Do you know for a fact that you have the latest HDMI standard cord?
I use these and have no problem: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8SSD0
By data Go To PostI use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052SCU8U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1Then I am at a loss. Unless something is not turned on in either the TV or PS4 options.
I think I fixed it.
though I really dont notice that big of a difference between with HDR and without. at least the input lag isnt terrible
though I really dont notice that big of a difference between with HDR and without. at least the input lag isnt terrible
Wish I didn't know what I know about tv tech :/
Since I have my XB1s hooked to my 55" for Planet Earth II and other Blu rays, I decided to game on it for a bit.
As I'm doing this I realized
A bigger screen is so much more immersive and the way id rather play (consoles). It's documented here everything that's wrong with my TV and why I'm being picky af about the next one. But it dawned on me that I've subconsciously avoided certain console games, or really console gaming in general, because I would in fact rather play on a large tv than a 23" monitor. When I play stuff like Horizon and Uncharted 4 I'm not 'wowed' by what I'm seeing because I'm playing on a 23" 1080p monitor. PC it's cool because I can get different resolutions and the dpi can really impact image quality, but consoles should be in as big of a screen as possible.
When I jump on the TV next year...I'm going to have a bunch of crap to play. My PS4 is primarily a 2k box, and will probably be so again this year, because shot timing is crucial in that game, and I can't deal on my TV.
Dat morning introspection brehs
Since I have my XB1s hooked to my 55" for Planet Earth II and other Blu rays, I decided to game on it for a bit.
As I'm doing this I realized
A bigger screen is so much more immersive and the way id rather play (consoles). It's documented here everything that's wrong with my TV and why I'm being picky af about the next one. But it dawned on me that I've subconsciously avoided certain console games, or really console gaming in general, because I would in fact rather play on a large tv than a 23" monitor. When I play stuff like Horizon and Uncharted 4 I'm not 'wowed' by what I'm seeing because I'm playing on a 23" 1080p monitor. PC it's cool because I can get different resolutions and the dpi can really impact image quality, but consoles should be in as big of a screen as possible.
When I jump on the TV next year...I'm going to have a bunch of crap to play. My PS4 is primarily a 2k box, and will probably be so again this year, because shot timing is crucial in that game, and I can't deal on my TV.
Dat morning introspection brehs
Be sure to wire an HDMI cable through walls from your PC to your new TV. And maybe a USB cable, too. Then you can play PC games on your TV. It rules pretty hard, in my experience.
By Kibner Go To PostBe sure to wire an HDMI cable through walls from your PC to your new TV. And maybe a USB cable, too. Then you can play PC games on your TV. It rules pretty hard, in my experience.
Isn't that what something like a Shield does? I know it's not hard wired, but I thought the experience was pretty decent from what I've read at least
By Smokey Go To PostIsn't that what something like a Shield does? I know it's not hard wired, but I thought the experience was pretty decent from what I've read at leastI think so. Does it support 4k and hdr? I know Steam Link doesn't.
By Kibner Go To PostI think so. Does it support 4k and hdr? I know Steam Link doesn't.
Yeah
https://shield.nvidia.com/blog/best-4k-games?nvid=nv-int-sdtv4k-12897
When it comes to streaming in 4K, you’re probably just thinking about movies and TV shows. And with others streamers like Apple TV, Roku, and Amazon Fire, that may be the case. Not so much with SHIELD. In addition to streaming content like TV shows and movies in 4K and 4K HDR, thanks to NVIDIA’s GameStream technology, SHIELD owners can cast PC games to their large screen TVs in 4K and 4K HDR. Gamestream HDR works just like normal Gamestream. You just need a Pascal GTX 1080-based gaming system and an HDR capable TV.
I wish SHIELD wasn't like $200. Might be cheaper for me to hire someone to run that wiring for me. Lol
I just did a quick price check and the SHIELD is $200 on Amazon as opposed to the Steam Link which is $20 right now. 10x the price for 4k and HDR over simple 1080p. =/
By Kibner Go To PostI just did a quick price check and the SHIELD is $200 on Amazon as opposed to the Steam Link which is $20 right now. 10x the price for 4k and HDR over simple 1080p. =/Can always ask Zabo for better info, he knows way more about it.
I had one for a while but didn't use it for gaming.
A raspberry Pi was better (and cheaper) for my needs.
Great device though!
So there are these TCL sets that are priced extremely competitively , and have HDR10 AND Dolby Vision, and < 20ms of input lag
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55P607-55-Inch-Ultra-Vision/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q
Wtf?
Positive first takes from enthusiast forums
http://www.avsforum.com/tcl-55-p-series-model-55p607-4k-hdr-roku-tv-with-dolby-vision-first-look/
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lcd-flat-panel-displays/2840689-tcl-launches-p-series-c-series-4k-roku-tvs-hdr-dolby-vision-launch.html
This is impulse territory for me
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55P607-55-Inch-Ultra-Vision/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q
Wtf?
Positive first takes from enthusiast forums
http://www.avsforum.com/tcl-55-p-series-model-55p607-4k-hdr-roku-tv-with-dolby-vision-first-look/
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lcd-flat-panel-displays/2840689-tcl-launches-p-series-c-series-4k-roku-tvs-hdr-dolby-vision-launch.html
This is impulse territory for me
That looks amazing for the price. It doesn't get quite as bright as it needs to for a "true" HDR experience but it does enough things well for a low enough price that I would hop on it to tide you over until your dream TV is manufactured.
When that TV comes in, you could move this one to a different room and still be happy with it. Or sell it for probably near what you paid for it. lol
When that TV comes in, you could move this one to a different room and still be happy with it. Or sell it for probably near what you paid for it. lol
Tangentially TV related, but my sub has way too many options to fiddle with. And I have to combine it with the bass management settings of my receiver, too. Look at this shit:
Oh, and here's a pdf showing what each of those options do: http://www.rythmikaudio.com/download/PEQ3_sealed_quickguide.pdf
And an html guide with some more in-depth discussion on the EQ, crossover, and bass extension settings: http://www.rythmikaudio.com/amplifier_controls.html
Does your receiver not support an automated phase alignment calibration so you have to manually do it yourself? Then follow the instructions in this handy, multiple part guide! http://www.rythmikaudio.com/phase1.html
In all seriousness, it seems my receiver "forgets" that I have a sub connected sometimes and I can't figure out why. The solution is to unplug the sub and then plug it back in. I'm lost as to why this happens and can't find any help online.
Oh, and here's a pdf showing what each of those options do: http://www.rythmikaudio.com/download/PEQ3_sealed_quickguide.pdf
And an html guide with some more in-depth discussion on the EQ, crossover, and bass extension settings: http://www.rythmikaudio.com/amplifier_controls.html
Does your receiver not support an automated phase alignment calibration so you have to manually do it yourself? Then follow the instructions in this handy, multiple part guide! http://www.rythmikaudio.com/phase1.html
In all seriousness, it seems my receiver "forgets" that I have a sub connected sometimes and I can't figure out why. The solution is to unplug the sub and then plug it back in. I'm lost as to why this happens and can't find any help online.
Samsung QF review
http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/q9f
Trash.
http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/q9f
Trash.
The Q9F TV has an excellent native contrast ratio. It is not as high as the 2016 KS Series like the KS8000, but it is still a very good result
The local dimming feature of the Q9F is bad. The only real advantage over the 2016 KS Series line of TVs, is that on the Q9F, the backlight LEDs are situated on each side of the screen, which means that the local dimming can turn off the whole black bars when watching movies. Besides that, the performance is relatively the same as the 2017 Q7F or 2016 KS8000.
TCL impressions here
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=240918843&postcount=8148
More people will be getting there's in a couple days. This guy is swaying he hard to cop this as a stop gap until I get whatever I'm looking for.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=240918843&postcount=8148
More people will be getting there's in a couple days. This guy is swaying he hard to cop this as a stop gap until I get whatever I'm looking for.
Just thought I would give an update on my intermittent sub signal problem: it was the audio cable. t_t
I posted on AVSForum asking for help and they suggested using a new cable as mine might be defective. Seems to be they were right as my new one seems to have made the sub receive sounds all the time!
I also ran Audyssey (fantastic, must have feature on receivers for me now) again. Turned off my AC, computer, and fridge as they interfered with the last calibration. I also had to restart several of the tests as cars approached and left the area because that also through off the mic. Oh, and crickets outside, too, so I did it during the day. The flood was good for something as all the wildlife was quiet and there were fewer people on the roads and river!
Anyway, the only noticeable thing I noticed is that Audyssey confirmed manufacturer specs and reviews of my satellite speakers being very capable down to 40hz. lol
I changed the crossover to 80hz as that is the THX standard. It has the side effects of letting my sub do what my sub does best and better than my satellites as well as letting the sats focus on the rest of their sound range, reducing distortion from trying to play lows at the edge of its capabilities and mids at the same time
I posted on AVSForum asking for help and they suggested using a new cable as mine might be defective. Seems to be they were right as my new one seems to have made the sub receive sounds all the time!
I also ran Audyssey (fantastic, must have feature on receivers for me now) again. Turned off my AC, computer, and fridge as they interfered with the last calibration. I also had to restart several of the tests as cars approached and left the area because that also through off the mic. Oh, and crickets outside, too, so I did it during the day. The flood was good for something as all the wildlife was quiet and there were fewer people on the roads and river!
Anyway, the only noticeable thing I noticed is that Audyssey confirmed manufacturer specs and reviews of my satellite speakers being very capable down to 40hz. lol
I changed the crossover to 80hz as that is the THX standard. It has the side effects of letting my sub do what my sub does best and better than my satellites as well as letting the sats focus on the rest of their sound range, reducing distortion from trying to play lows at the edge of its capabilities and mids at the same time
Things I have learned about THX reference levels and home theater systems yesterday:
1) THX speakers are expected to have a volume of 85 decibels at the main listening position. This is known as reference level volume and is how loud content creators intend their stuff to be.
2) The reference level volume is really just how loud dialog is intended to be. This is also called "pink noise". The speakers need to be able to support peaks of up to 20 dB.
3) Receivers that have a calibration system often have a volume setting that shows the offset from reference volume (denoted as 0, in this system). So, your volume meter can range from -80 to +10 db instead of the standard 0-100, for example.
My speakers are much too quiet for THX reference level standards (73 dB; see a couple posts down for details), but trust me when I say that it still gets more than loud enough for my purposes.
One final, small note: the reference level for different content can vary. Movies are what THX is designed for.
My main two references:
http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/2013314thx-reference-level/
https://audyssey.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/212347383-Dynamic-EQ-and-Reference-Level
e: I think I have the right of all this anyway. It can be pretty confusing
E2: took out incorrect and misleading information
1) THX speakers are expected to have a volume of 85 decibels at the main listening position. This is known as reference level volume and is how loud content creators intend their stuff to be.
2) The reference level volume is really just how loud dialog is intended to be. This is also called "pink noise". The speakers need to be able to support peaks of up to 20 dB.
3) Receivers that have a calibration system often have a volume setting that shows the offset from reference volume (denoted as 0, in this system). So, your volume meter can range from -80 to +10 db instead of the standard 0-100, for example.
My speakers are much too quiet for THX reference level standards (73 dB; see a couple posts down for details), but trust me when I say that it still gets more than loud enough for my purposes.
One final, small note: the reference level for different content can vary. Movies are what THX is designed for.
0 dB (Film Ref): This is the default setting and should be used when listening to movies.
15 dB: Select this setting for pop/rock music or other program material that is mixed at very high listening levels and has a compressed dynamic range.
10 dB: Select this setting for jazz or other music that has a wider dynamic range. This setting should also be selected for TV content as that is usually mixed at 10 dB below film reference.
5 dB: Select this setting for content that has a very wide dynamic range, such as classical music
My main two references:
http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/2013314thx-reference-level/
https://audyssey.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/212347383-Dynamic-EQ-and-Reference-Level
e: I think I have the right of all this anyway. It can be pretty confusing
E2: took out incorrect and misleading information
Oh wow, I had no idea about any of that stuff. One day I'll have a proper home theater setup again and definitely calibrate it proper.
By reilo Go To PostOh wow, I had no idea about any of that stuff. One day I'll have a proper home theater setup again and definitely calibrate it proper.The only thing I'm not confident on in that writeup is the volume my speakers can play at without damage or artifacts. Reference level literally hurts my ears with how loud it gets, so I'm ok with not being able to reach that level. I think they can go a fair bit higher than I pegged them for, but, yeah.
e: I think I'm going to make my volume max limit to -10 db since it doesn't sound too loud and my speakers are rated 10db lower than many THX certified systems so it is probably right?
E2: this post can be ignored as it was based on incorrect information. Except for the reference level hurting my ears part. That's still right.
Also, if you don't want to think about things, it seems a THX certified system is the way to ensure you get something capable of movie level output with a decent sound quality. e: oh, and picking out a receiver with some form of calibration tool. some are better than others, but having one and using it makes a world of difference. my denon 720w has Audyssey Bronze.
e: and, yeah, continually researching this stuff is a (bad?) habit of mine. i need to know like nearly everything i can about the features and limits of the stuff i use every day
e: and, yeah, continually researching this stuff is a (bad?) habit of mine. i need to know like nearly everything i can about the features and limits of the stuff i use every day
Thanks to Zabojnik asking about some audio stuff for his brother's PC got me to looking at a whole bunch of stuff I didn't know existed. Like DSPs.
Now I'm thinking of using my TV's optical out to feed this miniDSP and then have that go to this amp. This setup would effectively turn my Denon AVR into an HDMI switcher.
That miniDSP DAC has a license for Dirac Live room correction which is why it is so expensive. That is supposedly as good, if not better, than Audyssey's flagship XT32 stuff.
I'm tempted to do this, but that is nearly $1k worth of audio gear and I'm not yet comfortable with the idea of spending that much money on a better amp and room correction software.
Now I'm thinking of using my TV's optical out to feed this miniDSP and then have that go to this amp. This setup would effectively turn my Denon AVR into an HDMI switcher.
That miniDSP DAC has a license for Dirac Live room correction which is why it is so expensive. That is supposedly as good, if not better, than Audyssey's flagship XT32 stuff.
I'm tempted to do this, but that is nearly $1k worth of audio gear and I'm not yet comfortable with the idea of spending that much money on a better amp and room correction software.
Ok, one (hopefully) final update on how to determine how loud your speakers can go. This has been very confusing for me, so I can only imagine how it is for others.
Speakers have two power measurements: min and max. This is rated in watts, as in how many watts your amplifier can send to it. Trying to power your speaker with too weak an amp can damage the amp. Using an amp to provide more watts to your speaker than it can handle will cause speaker damage.
Speakers also have an impedance rating. I won't bother going into detail about what it means (partly because I don't understand it all myself) but think of it as a power efficiency rating. It is a number followed by the Ω symbol and/or the word "ohm(s)". For most speakers, the impedance is 8.
The last important Speaker stat is sensitivity or SPL. This is how loud the speaker gets at 1 meter with one watt of power. Sometimes, speaker manufacturers will use 2.83 V instead of 1 W. In this case, you may need to make an adjustment for the listed SPL based on the impedance of the speaker to find the sensitivity at 1W.
For amps, you want to know what the continuous power and max power per channel of the amp are. Make sure that they are both within the power range of your speakers or you may cause damage to the amp (if too low) or to the speaker (if too high).
Alright, you got all that? Good. Now you can use a calculator like this one to figure out how loud you can go with a bit of fiddling.
As a real world example, I have a speaker with a power rating of 50-100 W, an impedance of 4 Ω, and a sensitivity of 85 dB / 2.83 V (m) (which converts to 82 dB / 1 W (m)). I use the calculator I linked in the previous paragraph and use the following values based off my environment and the THX standards:
Listener distance from source: 2.7432 meters (9.0 feet)
Desired level at listener distance: 85 dBSPL (THX standard)
Loudspeaker sensitivity rating (1W/1M): 82 dB
Amplifier headroom: 20 dB (again, following THX standards)
This came out to 1,501 W which is far beyond my speaker's capabilities. So, I started lowering that "Desired level at listener distance" value until I found something that fits my speaker's power profile (i.e. between 50 and 100 watts): 73 dBPSL. That is 12dB lower than needed for THX standards, but it still gets loud enough to hurt my ears.
Playing with the different volumes on my receiver and I can confirm that this sounds about right since going louder real seems to strain the system. Unfortunately, my receiver only lets me set my volume limit to either -10 or -20 under reference (again 85 dB) so I just have to set it to -10 and make sure I never go above -12.
Link that was greatly helpful to me: https://www.themasterswitch.com/how-to-match-speakers-and-amps
e: that amp i linked in my previous post? Complete overkill and lets me accidentally damage my speaker. This one is much better. It has 80 W continuous power which is enough to drive my speakers up to 72 dBSPL in my current listening environment.
E2: made some corrections and clarifications
Speakers have two power measurements: min and max. This is rated in watts, as in how many watts your amplifier can send to it. Trying to power your speaker with too weak an amp can damage the amp. Using an amp to provide more watts to your speaker than it can handle will cause speaker damage.
Speakers also have an impedance rating. I won't bother going into detail about what it means (partly because I don't understand it all myself) but think of it as a power efficiency rating. It is a number followed by the Ω symbol and/or the word "ohm(s)". For most speakers, the impedance is 8.
The last important Speaker stat is sensitivity or SPL. This is how loud the speaker gets at 1 meter with one watt of power. Sometimes, speaker manufacturers will use 2.83 V instead of 1 W. In this case, you may need to make an adjustment for the listed SPL based on the impedance of the speaker to find the sensitivity at 1W.
For amps, you want to know what the continuous power and max power per channel of the amp are. Make sure that they are both within the power range of your speakers or you may cause damage to the amp (if too low) or to the speaker (if too high).
Alright, you got all that? Good. Now you can use a calculator like this one to figure out how loud you can go with a bit of fiddling.
As a real world example, I have a speaker with a power rating of 50-100 W, an impedance of 4 Ω, and a sensitivity of 85 dB / 2.83 V (m) (which converts to 82 dB / 1 W (m)). I use the calculator I linked in the previous paragraph and use the following values based off my environment and the THX standards:
Listener distance from source: 2.7432 meters (9.0 feet)
Desired level at listener distance: 85 dBSPL (THX standard)
Loudspeaker sensitivity rating (1W/1M): 82 dB
Amplifier headroom: 20 dB (again, following THX standards)
This came out to 1,501 W which is far beyond my speaker's capabilities. So, I started lowering that "Desired level at listener distance" value until I found something that fits my speaker's power profile (i.e. between 50 and 100 watts): 73 dBPSL. That is 12dB lower than needed for THX standards, but it still gets loud enough to hurt my ears.
Playing with the different volumes on my receiver and I can confirm that this sounds about right since going louder real seems to strain the system. Unfortunately, my receiver only lets me set my volume limit to either -10 or -20 under reference (again 85 dB) so I just have to set it to -10 and make sure I never go above -12.
Link that was greatly helpful to me: https://www.themasterswitch.com/how-to-match-speakers-and-amps
e: that amp i linked in my previous post? Complete overkill and lets me accidentally damage my speaker. This one is much better. It has 80 W continuous power which is enough to drive my speakers up to 72 dBSPL in my current listening environment.
E2: made some corrections and clarifications
Although, this amp could be even better and fits that article's guidelines about having a sure fire safe system. More expensive than the previous amp but the difference in cost is so much less than how much it would take to replace a blown speaker.
e: upon further reviews, this amp isn't so great for the price. i will probably stick with that Emotiva A-100 amp if I decide to upgrade.
e: upon further reviews, this amp isn't so great for the price. i will probably stick with that Emotiva A-100 amp if I decide to upgrade.
By Kidjr Go To PostI have now seen the light (or rather the black tbh) in that OLED is the truth.
mmhm
only other set to consider, imo, are the sony high end lcds (z9d, x940). as great as oled is, it can't get nearly as bright as the high end lcds, which is important for hdr, but oled makes a ton of ground up by having infinite blacks. sony got some black magic going on with the z9d tbh, and the 940 shares the same tech.
for me it's either those or budget sets that are really good for the money i.e. the tcl panel ive been talking about.
By Smokey Go To Postmmhm
only other set to consider, imo, are the sony high end lcds (z9d, x940). as great as oled is, it can't get nearly as bright as the high end lcds, which is important for hdr, but oled makes a ton of ground up by having infinite blacks. sony got some black magic going on with the z9d tbh, and the 940 shares the same tech.
for me it's either those or budget sets that are really good for the money i.e. the tcl panel ive been talking about.
High LCD is as good as OLED, I thought OLED was the mecha of screens?
No, the lack of brightness is a legit issue for HDR content. Not a big one, but one nonetheless. The best LCD panels with good FALD can hang with OLED. They cost just as much, though. Lol
E: the FALD lets the LCD screens adjust backlight brightness for individual parts of the screen which helps make up for their worse blacks issue
E: the FALD lets the LCD screens adjust backlight brightness for individual parts of the screen which helps make up for their worse blacks issue
By Kidjr Go To PostHigh LCD is as good as OLED, I thought OLED was the mecha of screens?
Read up on Sony Z9D. It's basically as far as LCD tech can go. In fact Sony refers to it as their halo tv even above their own OLED, the A1e.
But you gonna pay to stunt like that we talking $5,000+.
Rtings released their best gaming tv list for 2017.
http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/best/by-usage/video-gaming
First place goes to OLED LG C7
Best budget TV for gaming goes to the TCL
$650
15ms
HDR10 and DV
phew
http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/best/by-usage/video-gaming
First place goes to OLED LG C7
The best TV we've reviewed for playing video games is the LG C7 4k OLED TV. Not only does it feature the best picture quality currently available, it also has some of the lowest input lag found on any TV available today as well as virtually no motion blur.
Thanks to its virtually instant response time, fast motion looks incredibly fluid and crisp. The overall package offers a very responsive and immersive experience unmatched by competing LED TVs like the Samsung Q9F and Sony Z9D.
It's versatile too: its wide viewing angle means it's equally good for playing games with friends sitting on either side without a big effect on picture quality. The LG C7 isn't the brightest TV available, but it still offers the best gaming experience available today.
Best budget TV for gaming goes to the TCL
If you don't mind having a cheaper looking design, the TCL P607 is the best budget gaming TV we've tested. This 4k LED TV offers some of the best value on the market today and punches far above its weight class. It also sports a slew of features unusual for its price.
The TCL P-Series' input lag is one of the lowest we've tested at 15ms, making it an excellent choice for fast-paced games that require split-second reactions. Its handling of motion is no slouch either and motion blur is some of the lowest found on LED TVs.
$650
15ms
HDR10 and DV
phew
Welp. I hit the order button. Got me the miniDSP DDRC-24 DSP, calibration mic, remote, Emotiva Basx A-100 amp, and one optical and two digital coax RCA Mediabridge cables. Total of $795.57 USD. Will report back in like a month or something (not sure when everything is coming in, yet).
e: time to start looking for some decorative acoustic panels now
e: time to start looking for some decorative acoustic panels now
See this why I never fuked with audio. That shyt seems like a deeper rabbit hole than visuals/displays.
By Smokey Go To PostSee this why I never fuked with audio. That shyt seems like a deeper rabbit hole than visuals/displays.I've spent more on the audio portion of my home theater system than the visual but that is also the part that is more important to me. It also lasts for so much longer. Good speakers, subwoofers, and amps that are taken care of will still be good shit when your kids are grown and leaving the house. They tend to keep their value pretty well in case you ever want to sell them down the road.
I envision myself buying a new TV in like three years. I might replace that DSP in the same timeframe but the amp, speakers, and subwoofer will hopefully last me decades. They all use generic connections that have been around for longer than my parents have been alive and don't appear to be on the verge of being replaced.
Well, all my shit came in this week, including some new power strips for the tv and the computer (went from two strips each to one, yay!). Hooked it all up but not going to configure anything until the weekend, probably. As a result, the subwoofer is way too freaking loud right now. It's making my couch rumble like jello. Lol
Moved into my new place. Spot came with a mounted Samsung 50" 4K TV. I removed it and mounted my 60" Sony instead. I know, I know, I can hear Smokey grumbling "BUT 4K!" but I like my Sony. I don't wanna use the owners TV anyway, so my roommate has it upstairs in a smaller entertainment area.
But one thing that always bugs me about wall mounted setups... everyone puts the mount above the fireplace. Heat issues aside (if the fireplace is ever on), no place older than 20 years when it was originally built is actually properly designed to handle a TV and speakers and entertainment devices. Unfortunately they didn't make some cable tunneling either, so now I am stuck in figuring out how to effectively hide the cables and have a entertainment console and speakers and whatnot arranged in such a way that looks pleasant.
But one thing that always bugs me about wall mounted setups... everyone puts the mount above the fireplace. Heat issues aside (if the fireplace is ever on), no place older than 20 years when it was originally built is actually properly designed to handle a TV and speakers and entertainment devices. Unfortunately they didn't make some cable tunneling either, so now I am stuck in figuring out how to effectively hide the cables and have a entertainment console and speakers and whatnot arranged in such a way that looks pleasant.
If you can't go through the wall, you can try taking the HDMI (and optical, if used) wire around the edges where the wall and fireplace/floor/ceiling meet to wherever you want them to go and then covering up the wire with a strip of some kind that blends in with the structure it is placed against.
e: you want to minimize the wires coming out of the TV (less wires to hide) so an HDMI switch/receiver would be needed
e: you want to minimize the wires coming out of the TV (less wires to hide) so an HDMI switch/receiver would be needed
Yea, I think that's the only way I could do it unless I can convince the owners to pay someone to make a path through the wall. I'm sure there's some ways for me to cover it up. The walls are grey and white with white molding so it'd be pretty easy it's just annoying.
I only have one HDMI running from my TV and that's to my PS4 and an optical from my TV to my DAC which then connects to a pair of bookshelf speakers.
I only have one HDMI running from my TV and that's to my PS4 and an optical from my TV to my DAC which then connects to a pair of bookshelf speakers.
Speaking of optical, this was my first time seeing or using one and I kept trying to plug it in with the cover still on. derp
By reilo Go To PostYea, I think that's the only way I could do it unless I can convince the owners to pay someone to make a path through the wall. I'm sure there's some ways for me to cover it up. The walls are grey and white with white molding so it'd be pretty easy it's just annoying.My dad way back in the day would find a way for the wires to get to either the ceiling or the floor invisibly and then run wire along or inside the crown molding or base board. When the wire needed to come out to the speakers, he would run it down the nearest corner since that was easy to hide with molding, tape, or some kind of strip.
I only have one HDMI running from my TV and that's to my PS4 and an optical from my TV to my DAC which then connects to a pair of bookshelf speakers.
By reilo Go To PostMoved into my new place. Spot came with a mounted Samsung 50" 4K TV. I removed it and mounted my 60" Sony instead. I know, I know, I can hear Smokey grumbling "BUT 4K!" but I like my Sony. I don't wanna use the owners TV anyway, so my roommate has it upstairs in a smaller entertainment area.
But one thing that always bugs me about wall mounted setups… everyone puts the mount above the fireplace. Heat issues aside (if the fireplace is ever on), no place older than 20 years when it was originally built is actually properly designed to handle a TV and speakers and entertainment devices. Unfortunately they didn't make some cable tunneling either, so now I am stuck in figuring out how to effectively hide the cables and have a entertainment console and speakers and whatnot arranged in such a way that looks pleasant.
I don't even have a 4k TV yet I'm not grumbling lol
10" is a pretty big difference and it's fuk Samsung anyway
By Smokey Go To PostI don't even have a 4k TV yet I'm not grumbling lolThose were my thoughts as well. The couch is also further away than before so it makes a difference.
10" is a pretty big difference and it's fuk Samsung anyway