Looks like a few of us have been looking at new TVs recently, and I thought it would be a good idea to have a thread where we could help each other out.
Useful Sites:
http://www.rtings.com/tv (good reviews and some base calibrations to start from)
http://www.displaylag.com/display-database/ (lists the input lag of various TV sets which is very important for gaming)
http://w6rz.net (picture calibration files)
Key Technologies/Terms
4K: A digital cinema standard that is mainly focused around a much higher resolution image than 1080p
UHD: Ultra HD. A standard indicating a TV meets the requirements for 4K. A derivative of 4K.
UHD Premium: A standard that requires a TV to be 4K compliant in addition to supporting the 10-bit color and HDR standards
10-bit Color: A 10-bit panel, also called a "wide gamut" panel, has a larger granularity in colors to display, allowing for a richer picture. Most TVs today use 8-bit panels.
HDR: A standard that allows a panel to display really dark blacks and really bright whites at the same time. This is mainly done by changing backlight levels in different parts of the screen independent of each other.
Input Lag: The delay between when the TV receives a signal and when that signal is displayed. This is very important to gaming.
Response Time: How long it takes a pixel to fully change from one color to another. The quicker this is, the less motion blur the panel displays.
4:4:4 Chroma: Describes how pixels are grouped together when determining what color they should be. If a display does not use 4:4:4 chroma, tiny details can be blurry. This would be most obvious when connecting the TV to a computer and using it to display text. Heirarchy of quality: 4:4:4 > 4:2:2 > 4:2:0. This guy explains why:
LED: A display type that has really bright whites but not as dark of blacks as OLED
OLED: A display type that has really dark blacks but not able to get as bright as LED screens. Generally considered to have the better picture and much more expensive than LED.
IPS: A panel type that has great color accuracy and ability to maintain that color accuracy at any angle.
VA/PVA: A panel type that has great color accuracy but worse viewing angles than IPS panels.
TN: A panel type that has relatively poor color accuracy and viewing angles compared to IPS and VA/PVA panels. Cheap and has very fast response times. No longer used by high-end TVs.
"Easy" Calibration:
First off, make sure your TV and all connected devices are set to output with the same RGB color scale. If in doubt, default to RGB limited and you won't be wrong. The setting name may differ depending on the TV manufacturer (Samsung calls it "HDMI Black Level") so Google or ask here if you are unsure. 99.999% of all movies and certainly all TV shows use the limited and not the full RGB color scale so you aren't really missing out on anything if you use it.
It is very important that your TV and source devices have matching color scales or you will end up with either a washed out image or crushed blacks and whites resulting in poor brights/darks. If your TV and/or devices have an "auto" setting for this, it is important to experiment and make sure they work as expected.
If your TV has a color temperature setting, it is usually best to set it as warm as possible for an accurate picture. "Movie" mode presets are usually the closest to accuracy of all the mode presets. The correct color temperature and mode preset may differ from model to model. Again, search or post here for help.
Turn sharpness off; this is usually either 0 or 50%, depending on the TV (search or ask). If your TV has a wide gamut panel, make sure the color space doesn't default to Native at all times. Native will lead to over-saturation of colors from media that doesn't support wide gamut (99% of material you will view). Auto is usually fine, but make sure it works as expected (just like you have to do for the RGB Limited/Full Auto setting).
Turn off Dynamic Contrast and other visual processing effects. There are a few that may be useful in certain situations (like Smart LED on my set), but most change the picture from what was intended. After your set is calibrated, feel free to come back and adjust these settings to taste. You may need to recalibrate afterwards, though.
Once all that pre-calibration work is done and your tv has been on for ~30 minutes to "warm up", the set is now ready to calibrate. Brightness, contrast, color, and tint are relatively easy to adjust by eye and will get your TV having a "good enough" picture for most people so that is what we will work with.
To accomplish this, you will need to display a few different images on your TV. If your TV does not support a built-in RGB filter (which makes the entire screen either red, blue, or green) and you don't want to buy a cheap filter online, then use the free THX tune-up app on your phone. It will guide you through the process of setting your TV controls correctly.
If your TV does have a built-in RGB filter or you are ok with buying one (it's like $5 before shipping), then you will want to download one of the AVS HD 709 Calibration Disk packages at the top of this website: http://w6rz.net. Once it's downloaded, you will need to either burn it to a BD or find some other way to display the videos within the package on your TV. You will only need the ones in the "Basic Settings" folder. Most of the videos have instructions on them, but there is also an instruction manual on that same website.
It's all very confusing, I know. You can hire a THX technician to do all this (and more!) for you, but it's kinda pricey. There are also devices made to help with this (colorimeters) but they are also expensive.
----
If there is anything else people would like for me to put in the OP, post in this thread or message me.
Useful Sites:
http://www.rtings.com/tv (good reviews and some base calibrations to start from)
http://www.displaylag.com/display-database/ (lists the input lag of various TV sets which is very important for gaming)
http://w6rz.net (picture calibration files)
Key Technologies/Terms
4K: A digital cinema standard that is mainly focused around a much higher resolution image than 1080p
UHD: Ultra HD. A standard indicating a TV meets the requirements for 4K. A derivative of 4K.
UHD Premium: A standard that requires a TV to be 4K compliant in addition to supporting the 10-bit color and HDR standards
10-bit Color: A 10-bit panel, also called a "wide gamut" panel, has a larger granularity in colors to display, allowing for a richer picture. Most TVs today use 8-bit panels.
HDR: A standard that allows a panel to display really dark blacks and really bright whites at the same time. This is mainly done by changing backlight levels in different parts of the screen independent of each other.
Input Lag: The delay between when the TV receives a signal and when that signal is displayed. This is very important to gaming.
Response Time: How long it takes a pixel to fully change from one color to another. The quicker this is, the less motion blur the panel displays.
4:4:4 Chroma: Describes how pixels are grouped together when determining what color they should be. If a display does not use 4:4:4 chroma, tiny details can be blurry. This would be most obvious when connecting the TV to a computer and using it to display text. Heirarchy of quality: 4:4:4 > 4:2:2 > 4:2:0. This guy explains why:
LED: A display type that has really bright whites but not as dark of blacks as OLED
OLED: A display type that has really dark blacks but not able to get as bright as LED screens. Generally considered to have the better picture and much more expensive than LED.
IPS: A panel type that has great color accuracy and ability to maintain that color accuracy at any angle.
VA/PVA: A panel type that has great color accuracy but worse viewing angles than IPS panels.
TN: A panel type that has relatively poor color accuracy and viewing angles compared to IPS and VA/PVA panels. Cheap and has very fast response times. No longer used by high-end TVs.
"Easy" Calibration:
First off, make sure your TV and all connected devices are set to output with the same RGB color scale. If in doubt, default to RGB limited and you won't be wrong. The setting name may differ depending on the TV manufacturer (Samsung calls it "HDMI Black Level") so Google or ask here if you are unsure. 99.999% of all movies and certainly all TV shows use the limited and not the full RGB color scale so you aren't really missing out on anything if you use it.
It is very important that your TV and source devices have matching color scales or you will end up with either a washed out image or crushed blacks and whites resulting in poor brights/darks. If your TV and/or devices have an "auto" setting for this, it is important to experiment and make sure they work as expected.
If your TV has a color temperature setting, it is usually best to set it as warm as possible for an accurate picture. "Movie" mode presets are usually the closest to accuracy of all the mode presets. The correct color temperature and mode preset may differ from model to model. Again, search or post here for help.
Turn sharpness off; this is usually either 0 or 50%, depending on the TV (search or ask). If your TV has a wide gamut panel, make sure the color space doesn't default to Native at all times. Native will lead to over-saturation of colors from media that doesn't support wide gamut (99% of material you will view). Auto is usually fine, but make sure it works as expected (just like you have to do for the RGB Limited/Full Auto setting).
Turn off Dynamic Contrast and other visual processing effects. There are a few that may be useful in certain situations (like Smart LED on my set), but most change the picture from what was intended. After your set is calibrated, feel free to come back and adjust these settings to taste. You may need to recalibrate afterwards, though.
Once all that pre-calibration work is done and your tv has been on for ~30 minutes to "warm up", the set is now ready to calibrate. Brightness, contrast, color, and tint are relatively easy to adjust by eye and will get your TV having a "good enough" picture for most people so that is what we will work with.
To accomplish this, you will need to display a few different images on your TV. If your TV does not support a built-in RGB filter (which makes the entire screen either red, blue, or green) and you don't want to buy a cheap filter online, then use the free THX tune-up app on your phone. It will guide you through the process of setting your TV controls correctly.
If your TV does have a built-in RGB filter or you are ok with buying one (it's like $5 before shipping), then you will want to download one of the AVS HD 709 Calibration Disk packages at the top of this website: http://w6rz.net. Once it's downloaded, you will need to either burn it to a BD or find some other way to display the videos within the package on your TV. You will only need the ones in the "Basic Settings" folder. Most of the videos have instructions on them, but there is also an instruction manual on that same website.
It's all very confusing, I know. You can hire a THX technician to do all this (and more!) for you, but it's kinda pricey. There are also devices made to help with this (colorimeters) but they are also expensive.
----
If there is anything else people would like for me to put in the OP, post in this thread or message me.
Blew my mind yesterday that there are still so many newish TVs that are HD Ready, rather than Full HD
Buying a 40" Sony in an hour or two hopefully, since my 32" Samsung's picture went black yesterday. Not gonna risk paying £100 for a possibly temporary fix. 40" is probably a bit too big, but fuck it. Main problem is that it only has 2 HDMI ports, which is also crazy to me for a model that hit the market in 2015 I think.
Considered going 4k for a bit, but assume it'll be years (around the PS5 release?) until mainstream games really start showing the benefits of it.
Buying a 40" Sony in an hour or two hopefully, since my 32" Samsung's picture went black yesterday. Not gonna risk paying £100 for a possibly temporary fix. 40" is probably a bit too big, but fuck it. Main problem is that it only has 2 HDMI ports, which is also crazy to me for a model that hit the market in 2015 I think.
Considered going 4k for a bit, but assume it'll be years (around the PS5 release?) until mainstream games really start showing the benefits of it.
Since it sounds like you will be gaming on it, definitely check out these two links:
Input Lag: http://www.displaylag.com/display-database/
Reviews for 40-43": http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/by-size/40-42-43-inch/best
Input Lag: http://www.displaylag.com/display-database/
Reviews for 40-43": http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/by-size/40-42-43-inch/best
By Smokey Go To PostFukkery all aroundAdded a small section about my opinion on buying HDR and 4K sets to the OP just for you.
Disgusted
Found my first real annoyance with my Samsung KS8000. It supports local dimming through a setting called Smart LED. It controls backlighting for various parts of the screen which helps blacks look darker. However, if the screen is mostly black, it cuts out a lot of the backlighting causing a dimming effect.
This is not a big deal with movies or anything because there is almost always things on screen to show. I only really noticed it during loading screens in my PC games or in the PS3 menu system. So, I have to turn it off when I game. Tempted to just leave it off all the time because I know I will forget.
This is not a big deal with movies or anything because there is almost always things on screen to show. I only really noticed it during loading screens in my PC games or in the PS3 menu system. So, I have to turn it off when I game. Tempted to just leave it off all the time because I know I will forget.
On the plus side, the TV does a fantastic job at upscaling 1080p content. Even these PS1 games look sharp. Well, as sharp as a PS1 game can look, anyway. Text is clear with no deformities and it shows enough detail to see the dithering some sprites have in Xenogears that may have been difficult to see back in the day.
Probably going to get a 70 inch 1080p set with great blacks and low input lag near black Friday
I just want to be fully immersed in the blood bournes and tlous of the world
I just want to be fully immersed in the blood bournes and tlous of the world
By Dark PhaZe Go To PostProbably going to get a 70 inch 1080p set with great blacks and low input lag near black FridayJust be sure to check out reviews. I really like that rtings site linked in the OP. FYI, pretty much any nice TV you get is gonna have 4k and some kind of HDR support by default.
I just want to be fully immersed in the blood bournes and tlous of the world
Kibner: is it worth looking out for a certain OS on TV's?
I've heard Android OS tvs are normally worse than Samsung OS etc ..
I've heard Android OS tvs are normally worse than Samsung OS etc ..
By Lupercal Go To PostKibner: is it worth looking out for a certain OS on TV's?It's useful as a tie-breaker but I wouldn't make it any kind of priority.
I've heard Android OS tvs are normally worse than Samsung OS etc ..
Kibner...I'm now leaning towards the Samsung KS8000. RTings.com says 20.9 ms in game mode, and 22.6 in HDR + Game Mode.
:o
I...didn't know it was that low with HDR.
It's only $1,800 at Best Buy for the 65" ...WTF...OLED got pricing all screwed I'm my head
This changes everything
:o
I...didn't know it was that low with HDR.
It's only $1,800 at Best Buy for the 65" ...WTF...OLED got pricing all screwed I'm my head
This changes everything
It looks like they learned more about how it works. I guess having the Xbone S and some content that actually uses HDR helps. However, it looks like you need to have edge lighting (Smart LED) enabled for it to work as expected.
My only quibble is about the edge lighting for the TV that Smart LED enables. When the screen is like 95% black, it turns off the effect after like a quarter second. In games, this means that some loading screens and very, very, very dark screens are much darker/faded than they should be. If you get the TV, experiment with Smart LED on and off to find what you like best.
Also, you still can't enable the setting "HDR Mode" at the same time as the setting "Game Mode". Honestly, this doesn't mean much, because that HDR Mode setting is Samsung trying to emulate the HDR effect on source material that doesn't carry that information or trying to "enhance" the effect beyond the standards on source material that does carry HDR. You still get the expected HDR effect with HDR content with it disabled in favor of Game Mode, you just won't get any of the proprietary enhancements that the Samsung HDR Mode offers.
It does make me a bit happier about the TV. It's not OLED and it uses edge-lit backlights, but it is still capable of a very, very nice picture.
My only quibble is about the edge lighting for the TV that Smart LED enables. When the screen is like 95% black, it turns off the effect after like a quarter second. In games, this means that some loading screens and very, very, very dark screens are much darker/faded than they should be. If you get the TV, experiment with Smart LED on and off to find what you like best.
Also, you still can't enable the setting "HDR Mode" at the same time as the setting "Game Mode". Honestly, this doesn't mean much, because that HDR Mode setting is Samsung trying to emulate the HDR effect on source material that doesn't carry that information or trying to "enhance" the effect beyond the standards on source material that does carry HDR. You still get the expected HDR effect with HDR content with it disabled in favor of Game Mode, you just won't get any of the proprietary enhancements that the Samsung HDR Mode offers.
It does make me a bit happier about the TV. It's not OLED and it uses edge-lit backlights, but it is still capable of a very, very nice picture.
Also, I'm not sure if it's the TV internal scaler or my PS3 scaler, but games that are 1080p and lower still look great with no noticeable (to my eyes) artifacts.
Smokey, what kind of audio system do you have? The internal speakers are really weak. It also only has optical out and four HDMI ports. It does support ARC, however, which works pretty well. Depending on if you use a receiver and what its specs are, you may have to use three of the four ports for your 4K devices and have the last port use ARC to send audio to the receiver.
My audio game has always been weak. Waiting to get a house before going all out in that area . May look into a nice sound bar because the Samsung speakers on my current TV are pretty trash. I've gotten used to them though.
By Smokey Go To PostMy audio game has always been weak. Waiting to get a house before going all out in that area . May look into a nice sound bar because the Samsung speakers on my current TV are pretty trash. I've gotten used to them though.That would probably be the best thing for now. Getting into audio can be very pricey and the soundbar is a worthwhile alternative that will give you a decent experience.
e: The soundbar plugs into the ARC port, iirc, so if you have more than three HDMI devices to plug in, you may need to look into a 4k capable HDMI switcher.
By reilo Go To PostDebating whether I want to go full audio system again or soundbar.Probably depends on how much you value a strong bass and if you would use the speakers to play music.
e: or if you want surround sound, I guess. i don't really have the room to bother with that unless i want to go into the cramped attic and run wires and shit through the ceiling.
https://www.reddit.com/r/hometheater/comments/4vo904/official_vizio_p_vs_samsung_ks8000_megapost/
Taking a hard look at Vizio P vs KS 8000 now. Any of the above sound strange to you kibner? It should also be noted you'd have to go 65 inch for the P series because the 55 inch is IPS for some dumb reason.
I found the Samsung's upscaling overrated. Being my first 65" and first 4k I didn't know what to expect, but wasn't really impressed and I can't tell a difference between the two in that regard. Now if I could have compared them at the same time I may have been able to tell if one was slightly better than the other. But either way, I didn't spend $2k on a 4k TV to obsess over 720p/1080i cable.
The reason I returned the KS was due to light bleed (minor) and blooming (not minor). If I had to guess there's maybe 10 to 12 (if that) big vertical dimming zones. On some content, especially HDR the blooming could get quite bad, enough to extend into the black bars. When I booted up my PS4 the logo screen showed some of the worst blooming I have ever seen. Now I don't want to give the wrong impression, it has a great picture, but when I watched movies at night it was very bothersome and distracting. Even my wife, who I come home to watching the SD channels instead of HD and says she doesn't care, noticed the blooming.
The Vizio shows no noticeable blooming, even in pitch black. That alone is enough for me to recommend it over the KS.
HDR on both sets is stunning, I would have given the edge to the Samsung, but that was before I watched the Dolby Vision version of Pacific Rim. There was no HDR 10 version to compare at the time but I was utterly blown away by the colors, contrast, and overall intensity of the picture during the battles. Nothing I watched on the KS looked as good.
Taking a hard look at Vizio P vs KS 8000 now. Any of the above sound strange to you kibner? It should also be noted you'd have to go 65 inch for the P series because the 55 inch is IPS for some dumb reason.
By Smokey Go To PostIsn't the Vizio P garbage for input lag tho?
I find it strange that the P series rtings review has quite an extensive table about input lag across HDR modes and such and the KS8000 gets a flat "with hdr input lag is virtually the same". Not completely sure if I trust that, but if that's the case then the KS is the true winner.
By Dark PhaZe Go To Posthttps://www.reddit.com/r/hometheater/comments/4vo904/official_vizio_p_vs_samsung_ks8000_megapost/I don't have any HDR content to tell. I also only have a PS3. I can't comment to any blooming. Read the rtings review: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/vizio/p-series-2016
Taking a hard look at Vizio P vs KS 8000 now. Any of the above sound strange to you kibner? It should also be noted you'd have to go 65 inch for the P series because the 55 inch is IPS for some dumb reason.
Here is their local dimming test, which should show blooming, I think:
KS8000
Vizio P Series 2016
Kibner I find it odd that you are so tech literate , but still on a PS3, I can't lie :x
I can't even imagine. You're mind is gonna be blown on the PS4P.
Also I can't lie...the 75" KS9500 was impressive af. It was around 4k tho, but damn.
I can't even imagine. You're mind is gonna be blown on the PS4P.
Also I can't lie...the 75" KS9500 was impressive af. It was around 4k tho, but damn.
By Dark PhaZe Go To PostI find it strange that the P series rtings review has quite an extensive table about input lag across HDR modes and such and the KS8000 gets a flat "with hdr input lag is virtually the same". Not completely sure if I trust that, but if that's the case then the KS is the true winner.They did various tests with the KS8000 recently with a Xbone S and HDR content and the difference was like 2ms, which is probably within the margin of error.
e: that Vizio P has kinda nasty input lag with HDR enabled. Yuck.
By Kibner Go To PostI don't have any HDR content to tell. I also only have a PS3. I can't comment to any blooming. Read the rtings review: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/vizio/p-series-2016
Here is their local dimming test, which should show blooming, I think:
KS8000
Vizio P Series 2016
3.5 vs 8.5 (vizio p)
fuk
By Smokey Go To PostKibner I find it odd that you are so tech literate , but still on a PS3, I can't lie :xThere was no reason for me to purchase a new console as I wasn't really interested in any of the exclusive games. It wasn't until joining here that I would even consider buying one and that is just because I found some people that it looks like I could play Destiny with.
I can't even imagine. You're mind is gonna be blown on the PS4P.
Also I can't lie…the 75" KS9500 was impressive af. It was around 4k tho, but damn.
From what rtings has said, there isn't much difference, picture-wise, between the KS8 series and the KS9 series. Not worth the extra money for most people, in their opinion.
By Dark PhaZe Go To Post3.5 vs 8.5 (vizio p)http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/by-usage/video-gaming/best
fuk
Pick from TVs in there.
By Kibner Go To PostThey did various tests with the KS8000 recently with a Xbone S and HDR content and the difference was like 2ms, which is probably within the margin of error.
e: that Vizio P has kinda nasty input lag with HDR enabled. Yuck.
right, but I'd like a second opinion. just a little sus to me, not saying rtings has an agenda or anything like that, but only 2ms from HDR processing seems odd to me, is it really HDR? could be, but I'd like to get a second opinion
By Dark PhaZe Go To Postright, but I'd like a second opinion. just a little sus to me, not saying rtings has an agenda or anything like that, but only 2ms from HDR processing seems odd to me, is it really HDR? could be, but I'd like to get a second opinionIt looks like no one else is really doing those tests. I googled myself and I found a thread on the other site that confirms the same thinking.
e: oh, i see that you also found that thread
Oh, also regarding my PS3, I haven't really played it much, either. It is basically my Rock Band machine with a little retro gaming on the side. I just was never a big console guy once I got a capable gaming PC, so I bought the PS3 like two years after it came out because I wanted Rock Band and a blu-ray player.
By Dark PhaZe Go To Postkibner have you not tried HDR through your sets netflix program?No. I'm shameful when it comes to shit like that. The only 4K program I have watched was The Tick through the Amazon app. I will have to look for a Netflix or Amazon video that has HDR to check it out.
e: i'm gonna turn on my local dimming, warm up the tv and calibrate it, and try to find an HDR program
By Smokey Go To PostMy audio game has always been weak. Waiting to get a house before going all out in that area . May look into a nice sound bar because the Samsung speakers on my current TV are pretty trash. I've gotten used to them though.
I got a Bose soundbar, pretty great sound quality and decent bass 'feeling'.
You got go the Samsung route with the newest model, those are boss as fuck and look pretty great.
I recently purchased a $600 1080p 60" Samsung plasma from 2013-2014 as an upgrade to my LG 42" 720p plasma.
Unless OLED stops acting like I'm going to spend a down payment on a car for a TV, I will ride plasma until I simply can't.
Unless OLED stops acting like I'm going to spend a down payment on a car for a TV, I will ride plasma until I simply can't.
So I did a little experiment last weekend. I hooked the PS4 up to my living room LED (Samsung UN55d8000, trash). This is the TV I bought in 2011 which was top of the line at the time. Cost me something like $3,000+. I wasn't I to the technical side of TVs like I am now. Well this pos has all kinds of uniformity issues, extreme cloudiness, and is just trash. Input lag is pretty bad.
Anyway
Played through Destiny and played Madden online. Surprisingly it wasn't too bad (input lag) in game mode. I also moved my recliner to an area where I was much closer to the TV.
So now I may be back in the OLED 55" train. There's no way this set in 2016 has worse lag than my set from 2011. I haven't had a chance to officially look it up, but I just feel like advancement in technology during this time won't allow it.
So Im thinking of punting this TV, going with OLED, hooking PS4P and X1 to this set, moving OG PS4 to my office (where it normally sits) hooked up to my 23" Asus monitor, and play there when I feel like timing is the utmost of importance.
This seems like the best of both worlds and I get dat sweet OLED.
Anyway
Played through Destiny and played Madden online. Surprisingly it wasn't too bad (input lag) in game mode. I also moved my recliner to an area where I was much closer to the TV.
So now I may be back in the OLED 55" train. There's no way this set in 2016 has worse lag than my set from 2011. I haven't had a chance to officially look it up, but I just feel like advancement in technology during this time won't allow it.
So Im thinking of punting this TV, going with OLED, hooking PS4P and X1 to this set, moving OG PS4 to my office (where it normally sits) hooked up to my 23" Asus monitor, and play there when I feel like timing is the utmost of importance.
This seems like the best of both worlds and I get dat sweet OLED.
The thing is I'm still not completely sure that OLED has the best picture. It's already proven that the LED's have the brighter pictures, and if the black level is good enough (which it is) on stuff like the KS8000, then by definition HDR should pop better on those sets.
In terms of input lag most modern sets should be fine for anything but competitive play in a shooter. Sports games are less reliant on quick input--they are more about getting a feel for the timing. Fuck around with Halo on an OLED and get rekt though
In terms of input lag most modern sets should be fine for anything but competitive play in a shooter. Sports games are less reliant on quick input--they are more about getting a feel for the timing. Fuck around with Halo on an OLED and get rekt though
Everyone agrees that OLED has the best overall picture. It's basically LED vs plasma round 2. LEDs were always brighter than plasma and the same will probably be true here.
HDR emphasis on that popping contrast in terms of brightness and color stood out to me very easily in person and makes sense on paper as well. These sets will never get close to OLED in terms of the bread and butter, but if HDR is what makes UHD next level, then the ability for LED's to get nearly twice as bright is really significant. That's huge in regards to daytime viewing as well.
I just don't think it's as clear cut as everyone makes it out to be when HDR is taken into account.
I just don't think it's as clear cut as everyone makes it out to be when HDR is taken into account.
Shit like this is what the HDR standard(s) are supposed to help with. I don't feel like taking the time right now to look up the different standards and figuring out what's what with them. I'd assume there is a "best" or at least "most widely accepted" standard and all the premium TVs should be in compliance with it. I know peak brightness of <x> minimum value is one of the requirements.
By Kibner Go To PostShit like this is what the HDR standard(s) are supposed to help with. I don't feel like taking the time right now to look up the different standards and figuring out what's what with them. I'd assume there is a "best" or at least "most widely accepted" standard and all the premium TVs should be in compliance with it. I know peak brightness of <x> minimum value is one of the requirements.
they fucked around and made two different standards that are basically to avoid having to deal with LED vs OLED
one is a minimum maximum brightness that's a lower standard but a much higher standard for minimum black levels--this is the OLED variant, and its literally swapped for the alternative to account for LED
one thing that's for sure is we're in super early days with this stuff--it's actually surprising that both sony and microsoft are focusing on HDR right now
This discussion just made me realize I don't think I have my TV set to game mode when playing on PS4 lol. I should fix that 😂
I think my Sony W630B has a very low input lag for gaming, too, at 23.6ms in gaming mode: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/sony/w630b
I think my Sony W630B has a very low input lag for gaming, too, at 23.6ms in gaming mode: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/sony/w630b
sony has a history of that shit--I remember the newest model of their XBR CRT 1080i set at the time was inferior to the earlier model for some reason or another
i was hunting for that set for years--finally nabbed one and nearly broke my back trying to get it into the crib...glad those CRT's are dead
i was hunting for that set for years--finally nabbed one and nearly broke my back trying to get it into the crib...glad those CRT's are dead
I realized I didn't have the 8xx series, but rather the 630b, which has even lower input lag. So I'm happy on that front. I should turn that on 😂
Kibner, rtings.com is amazing. I love that they give you the exact settings for optimal picture quality: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/sony/w630b/settings
Kibner, rtings.com is amazing. I love that they give you the exact settings for optimal picture quality: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/sony/w630b/settings
Just be aware that a lot of those settings are specific to the panel on their TV and may not be accurate for someone else's. Especially when you get down to changing white levels of different colors and shit. Always use a calibration tool to confirm. As an example, I have had to lower my contrast and raise my brightness from their recommended settings for my TV.
But, yeah, they are great for getting a baseline configuration that you can then make small tweaks to. They especially help when describing why to enable/disable certain features and other caveats. Really good and simple guides.
But, yeah, they are great for getting a baseline configuration that you can then make small tweaks to. They especially help when describing why to enable/disable certain features and other caveats. Really good and simple guides.
i'd be interested to see what professional calibrations make of HDR--they tend to be super reserved in terms of color and "pop", going for a more "natural" image
Wait, is HDR its own format like LCD, LED, Plasma, and OLED or are we talking about a gaming feature, high dynamic range?
By Phoenix RISING Go To PostWait, is HDR its own format like LCD, LED, Plasma, and OLED or are we talking about a gaming feature, high dynamic range?An LED or OLED tv may support HDR. In order for a TV to display the HDR effect, the TV has to support it and the content has to have it.
Think of it as a feature like 4K or HD. The display and the source both have to use it in order for a person to see the effect.
You can read this article for more info.